Drill bit question

Actually, I think that this procedure puts undo stress on the bit itself making failure more of a possiblity.

searcher1

The shanks of (twist) drill bits are soft so that the jaws can indent them properly so they don't slip when being used. Gripping by the flutes tends to defeat the purpose, plus you risk chipping the hardened flutes due to very limited surface area in contact with the jaws. Beyond that, it's not likely to be much of an issue. I've gripped drill bits by any and all means necessary to accomplish a necessary end. One thing to your advantage is that they're not expensive enough to lose any sleep over if you happen to trash one in the process.

The only real negative in using them gripped that short is that the chips often enter the body of the chuck instead of discharge before they get to the chuck. If that's not a problem for you, go for it. With the idea in mind that you may be offering up the drill as a sacrifice. Maybe not.

Harold

James wrote in news:dpuXd.5181$Ru.2713@okepread06:

Gurhing makes short-flute drills in diameters down to under a millimeter. Even carbide if you are so inclined. We use several different sizes routinely in a high volume production environment. Example: Carbide 2.0 mm drill will be 30 mm long with 12 mm of flute length.

When you grab by the flutes, you're grabbing a hardened point on the drill. Several things happen then. You tend to cut the chuck at that location as the drill slips which wallers out the chuck and makes it hard to hold other things. You also put uneven stress on the drill itself by stressing the flutes towards each other. Also, the drill is held off-center by the chuck with the 3 jaws of the chuck holding the 2 flutes of the drill which also puts stress on the drill itself with the round end of the drill which makes the drill already stressed and thus the breaking point is closer to what a properly held drill will break at. The drill also doesn't have the flexiging of the shank to help resist shorck forces that happen when drilling. There are probably a few other problems with chucking a drill like that but those above are already enough to not do that practice.

-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

Hmm ... perhaps you should search under the term "screw machine" instead of "machine screw". That could improve your chances.

I tried to check MSC's website, but found that they insisted on cookies, even if I was just verifying that something was stocked.

However, I can assure you that I have bought sets of number-sized drill bits in screw-machine length, with split points, and cobalt steel. Those go from #1 through #60, which is smaller than your smallest requirement, so I see no reason why they should not be available in metric sizes.

You've gotten several other responses which suggest that it is not that good an idea to grip on the flutes. If you insist on doing so, what I would suggest is that you drill a brass sleeve to fit the drill, and the slit it along one side, so when the chuck grips it, it will close up on the drill bit -- thus at least protecting the jaws of your drill chuck, if not the bit itself.

Good Luck, DoN.

Which is one reason that I still keep a copy of the 'big book' and simply call them on their toll-free number to check price and availability.

Newark electronics can make a web site that allows stocking checks, sans cookies - why can't MSC??

Jim

Yep. I have one as well. But it is quite awkward to both thumb through the book and to type on this keyboard (which is in my lap) at the same time. :-)

I have sent them an e-mail asking that very question. I've gotten an auto-response only. And, I've explained how they lost a possible referral by their cookies policy.

Enjoy, DoN.

Thanks everyone. Went on McMaster and found what I was looking for. THey didn't have metric machine screw length but found the wire gauge that will work. Ordered a dozen in each size I need.

Thanks aga> Is it OK to insert small drill bits deep into the chuck so that the