Drill chuck question

I recently bought a 1/2 in. Jacobs chuck and an R8 adapter with the appropriate taper to fit the chuck for my mill. The problem is that the chuck doesn't want to stay on. I've tried polishing the surfaces, rapping them together, pressing them together etc., etc. But they still come apart on occasion, usually when backing the drill out (it works fine as long as the drill is under pressure...). I suspect the taper on the adapter (ENCO) is just a little bit off. I've considered Loc-Tite, but am a little afraid that may cause other problems. (If it NEVER comes apart, well, that's the idea...)

I had the same problem on my 5/8 in. drill press, and I hit the taper with a piece of sand paper while it was spinning. That fixed it. But that cure doesn't seem to work in this case.

Any suggestions? (Yeah, I know, don't buy cheap adapters...)

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Foster
Loading thread data ...

Paint the taper with lay-out fluid, let it dry. Mate the chuck to the taper and move it around. The bluing will show the mating points.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

I would worry that if it's not seating properly now, it won't register accurately.

Reply to
John Hofstad-Parkhill

Layout blue?

That's the dumbest thing you've said to date, Tom. :-) Layout blue is that, layout blue. It's not worth a damn for checking a fit as you suggest. It goes on too thick and doesn't transfer as required, it balls up and tells you lies. The product for this purpose is the same product one would use when scraping, Prussian blue, the oily stuff in a tube, like a small tube of toothpaste. Use very sparingly, the thinner, the better. It will define the fit, unlike layout blue.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

I've used Layout blue to fix chucks that wont stay on with no problem what so ever.... I think it works just fine...

Reply to
kbeitz

Here is what I do. First make sure there are no scratches, knicks ect. I clean mating surfaces with alcohol, dry and then press together in an arbor press. If it still comes loose I repeat the cleaning and put some locktight in there. This almost always works. What I have noticed is people don't clean the surfaces very well and rely too much on pressing them together.

Reply to
Dr. Butter

I'm surprised none of the old-timers mentioned this one...

After you have verified that you have no galling, or other defects that affect the fit, clean well, and apply some chalk.

One good rap on a block of oak, end grain.

Reply to
Jon

That's because you haven't used what works properly, and don't understand that it's not telling you what you need to know. Fact is, a grease pencil would be far better suited than the layout blue. Next time you find yourself in the same position, try Prussian blue and see the difference. I, too, have used layout blue, but I've also used Prussian blue. They aren't the same critter, not even close. The layout blue lies to you-----it just isn't suited to the level of precision that you're trying to monitor.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Ya both wrong , 400 Wet /dry , rough it up on a piece of scrap steel to knock off the sharp edges and hi spots . Then use it to

make some scratches in the arbor parallel to abor and twist the chuck on till you can see cross lines in a 10 to 40 power microscope . The cheap China pocket types have a lens too small .

Make ur own , 16mm or larger diam' , flat one side , curved other side makes a focal length of about 10mm to 25mm , if it is low power , try 2 lens , flat side to ur eye . You will need to have a eye stand off so you can use all the lens to see , undistorted . Notice how : eye too close distorts , but same if too far .

BTW , i just read about engines , Atkison , Miller , Sterling , Scuderi ( Puch)

Sterling is too slow for the thermal resistance of the cylinder walls , Modern engines just dump the heat out the pipe , to speed up , they dont have to save the working gas . But its interesting to slow an engine and get efficiency . Atkison delays intake closing , reducing volumetric eff' but reduces pumping losses AND ! Improves the expansion for better power ! But since you're taking in far less air and fuel , you need to increase the engine displacement , but the "net" is better Now where is V-tec Honda ? Horse power over wider range ! If you could delay exhaust on V-tec you'd limit RPM , but econ would go up . 70 MPG ..... But as above , if the V-tec had 300 cubic inches , then you'd do 60 H.P. at better econ than a Honda HX !

Another idea doin only exhaust : you could simply restrict and expand exhaust after you sucked some heat from it by passing it thru the intake manifold ,by using a tiny turbo . I think Smokey did this . It produced very positve results , comparable to the big makers , like Honda , buthe did it for cheap and so can you . Just feed all the heat ya can into intake with a heat exchanger . You must reduce the compression ratio and of course the H.P. drops .

I have a carb that is so easy to make , only the control is complicated . But it nixes the stupid slow air past the venturri problem that every carb has ! It was so simply to solve , i can say it was genius ... The venturi is at the idle mixture hole ! It does not use a common throttle blade , it uses a simpler , easier to make and fit blade that simply pushes into carb body . The carb has a 2nd hole for air only , it opens when you take foot off , on the HWY , or when ya want to kill engine ...

Reply to
werty

Maybe the taper is touching bottom just enough to keep from sticking? Randy

Reply to
Randy Replogle

According to Harold and Susan Vordos :

Perhaps part of the problem is that the same company sells both layout blue and spotting (Prussian) blue. That company is Dy-Kem.

And I agree that the spotting blue is what is needed for this task.

Perhaps the layout blue was serving as a substitute for LocTite. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

I strive to constantly surprise you Harold! That said, the bluing I have is so thin it does the job. I always had to make due with what we had and we were so poor we couldn't afford that fancy "Prussian Blue" or any other imported supplies. Besides, I'm sure most of a tube of Prussian Blue would end up on my car door handle.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Right on, Harold! Just last evening I had 2 flat pieces of brass clamped together and applied layout blue to the edges for marking some drill locations. Later, when I removed the clamp the pieces appeared to be glued together. The layout blue had run between the pieces and stuck them together. It only took one small rap to get them apart, of course. Layout blue is definitely not recommended for gluing purposes, even though it may appear to work in that fashion. Beware !

Bob Swinney

Reply to
Robert Swinney

You appear to know me far better than I thought. :-)

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

Nasty shit Maynard! (I was going to suggest silver solder but I knew you'd bitch.)

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Silver solder on your door handle?

Not a chance. Worth too much.

Remember, I'm the guy that knows how to extract the values from such things.

H
Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

No, silly...I was going to suggest the poster silver solder the chuck onto the taper.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Sigh! With you, it's hard to know. :-)

Solder on the heat treated chuck? Geeeez, Tom-----I figured you had more smarts than that.

H
Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

It's not MY chuck!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Then get on with the silver solder. It works great.

H
Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.