Drilling Copper

Smart money says the holes don't have to be drilled at all. I think there's a way around this.

Jim

================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

We need to mark 1/4" thick copper plates with a small "V" design that either punches completely through the metal, or notches the edge. A stamp won't work. My husband thinks he can drill a "V" but I was hoping there would be an easy handtool we could use instead. It needs to be portable, not something set up in a shop. I am only finding sheetmetal tools online and I'm not sure that would work on 1/4" copper.

TIA! Fran

Chisel?

GWE

For the edge, a Vixen file, perhaps - not quite clear what you are doing if drilling is the first thing you think of, but for making a "V" shaped notch at the edge of a plate...

Vixen files are specially designed to work on softer metals, with large curved teeth.

I'll take a look. There have been a lot of copper thefts in our line of work and though the pieces are turning up at scrap metal lots, we can't positively identify ours. (So the police won't return it to us!) Needs a mark that can't be sanded off and is the same on every piece. Thought about just punching a hole in the corner but these pieces already have lots of holes and one more wouldn't make it unique! Thanks for the tips!

Fran

Maybe I am missing something, but a simple, maybe custom, metal stamp would be all you need, no? Easy to apply also. Put the stamp against metal and strike with hammer. Quite difficult to remove from sheetmetal.

i

Anything engraved or surface stamped they are just filing or buffing off. That's why we were thinking of something that completely went through the metal. But probably they will find a way around that as well!

Thanks Fran

Get a uv sensitive marking pencil or paint.

John

Get a hard #1 Phillips drywall screwdriver bit at the hardware store. End drill a piece of 3/4" dia CRS bar with a hole .277 dia ("J" drill) about half a inch deep. Vise-press or pound the flat end of the bit into the hole. If you then put the screwdriver bit end on copper and hit the tool hard with a big hammer, it will make a very distinctive impression. If you predrill or punch the copper maybe

3/16" dia and then seat the screwdriver bit in the hole and hit it hard, it will penetrate even deeper -- and it won't look like "just another hole". >

The UV marker is a good idea. Looks like nothing until you hit it with the black light, and then you've got proof it's yours (and proof that the scrapyard is receiving stolen goods, which should jog their memory about who sold them this piece, etc...

On the visible mark line, I'd go for punching a depression about 1/2 way into the plate, and then marking with a deep stamp inside that depression. (or just ram the stamp halfway into the plate). A good-sized punch from the hardware store and some time with a Dremel tool and a magnifier can give you a custom-marking punch you can really beat on. If you don't get it hot while grinding to customize, it will still be nice and hard. If you feel sneaky, shape the punch so the top is just a plain round hole, and fill it with mud, dirt, wax. Then you can clean out the hole when you visit the scrapyard (rather than having the theives drill out the deep punching).

Excellent idea! I'll run that by the powers that be! Much easier than drilling, punching and stamping! Thanks!

I'll keep all these ideas in mind! Thanks everyone! I knew you guys would have some answers for me!

Fran

Good idea - and you might want to do a torq and ... - make a code of three or four. or a brand - a triangle of three...

Have one like it in save storage for photographs - and show and tell... Have a couple of photographs (don't you love the digital cameras - ) and a floppy with picture... The picture can be web casted to all cars on-the-fly.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

D> >

If it is 1/4" how about stamping an id on the edges instead of face?

Wes S

Router with a V bit

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence, and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years . It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints, and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

Do two marks- One visible and one in-visible (black light etc)

This gives the thieves one to erase and you can still identify the stolen goods later.

Advertise the catching and punsihment of the thieves, but not the method. This will act as a deterrant. Also good to advertise the name of the party receiving the stolen goods. Gotta only use facts though, or you are opening yourself fore legal action.

Mark (don't like thieves) Dunning

I think this is most likely how we will handle it. The police are willing to crack down on both the thieves and scrap dealers but we have to show that the stuff they are buying and selling was stolen. But it would be nice to not have it stolen to start with, so a visible mark would be better in that respect!

Thanks! Fran

Yes, we had thought the same thing. We always take pictures of our installations when we do them. I would love to see some of these guys get caught!

Thanks! Fran

Hi Wes, it would need doing at a construction site with rough tools. Marking the edge is a good idea though, if it were easily done. I'm thinking it would take a clamp and more than a hand tool to get a good consistent pattern on all pieces? Maybe it's easier than it sounds to me. But the more ideas the better! That's why I'm asking the experts!

Thanks Fran