As best I recall, there was a pump (or possibly two pumps) for pumping the oil, and a vacuum chamber (with its own vacuum pump) as part of the filter system that the oil was pumped though - the vacuum was to remove water, and would not have served to pump the oil where it needed to go. That part of the system is evidently called (no surprise) a "vacuum dehydration tower"
Same maker, different application, as close as I can find after several decades. They remove free water with a coalescing filter and use the vacuum to get dissolved water out of the oil....
Well, I'm not putting a meat thermometer in there, but it went off pretty damned quick. There are two sides to this but I'm not going to do the physics. One is that the oil is putting a modest pressure on the free water, and probably is raising its boiling temperature. The other is that the vapor pressure of the heated water (vapor) may not have to be that high to form a pretty violent bubble -- possibly below boiling temp at atmospheric pressure. I'll leave that question to the physics people.
But the oil apparently does put some pressure on the vapor, which is why, I'm guessing, it pops up violently when it reaches the oil's surface.
(That was my can for cleaning bicycle chains in kerosene. It better not be wrecked. )
About the hydraulic oil: We may have better living through chemistry today, but when I had to deal with it, maybe 40 years ago, you had two choices. You could have anti-foaming, or you could have water-emulsifying. But you couldn't have both. The chemistries for those two features were not compatible.
So I didn't automatically assume that Karl had an emulsifying oil.
You want to "decant" the water first. Get a 5 gallon can and cut the "bottom" out of it. . Solder a small valve into the fill cap. Invert the can and fill with oil. Let it sit for an hour or so and open the valve to drain off the water. Now you will have 90+% of the water removed. Let is sit some more and see if any more settles out. If not you are pretty well set to go -
A whole lot faster and simpler than cooking all the water out.
warming it up GENTLY to no more than about 215F- 220F won't hurt the oil and will drive the last remnants of moisture out of the oil if you want to be fussy, or put a few bags of Silica Gel in the oil to suck out the last of the water.
Yes it will - and it is not recommended. That's why I recommended "decanting" the water with the modified 5 gallon can.
If you have all the "free" water drained out, heating the oil will drive out any "bound" or absorbed water relatively safely - as will working the equipment for an hour or two.
If it is "emusified" to the point it will not settle out, don't be a cheapskate - put in new oil. I'm sure the hydraulics are worth a LOT more than a couple gallons of new multi-hydraulic oil
At 215F at sea level water is vapour. At 210 it's just hot water. Somewhere in between there the water trapped under the oil approaches it's "local" boiling point and starts rizing to the surface - and the localized pressure reduces, causing the water to "flash" to steam. When this happens it expands exponentially - something like 1700:1 - blowing hot oil all over the place.
This is bad enough on an enclosed element - it is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS when working with an open flame, as the splashing oil can easily ignite, and the possibility of igniting the whole pot of oil, although not terribly high, IS REAL.
Put it into a 55 gallon steel drum that's setting horizontal on an elevated stand with a water faucet screwed into the 3/4in bung and rotate it to appx the 5:00 O'clock or so position so that the water level is slightly below the faucet.
When your done, drain the water and you can then re-use the setup to store used motor oil and or other petroleum based substances for later use either for a waste oil shop heater or as feedstock for black diesel.
Ignoramus17069 fired this volley in news:7dqdna7ZbMHhsnnQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Actually, it can, Ig. It depends upon how you apply the heat.
We had to dry out about 20lb of wet paraffin wax at the factory.
I _almost_ had an injurious accident.
I was melting the wax/water over an electric burner at high heat.
It began to foam and boil vigorously, and didn't look _too_ likely to boil over-- it was just foaming to beat the band.
I got called back to the office, and thought, "Well, I better turn the burner down so it won't catch fire while I'm away."
I turned it down to a low heat, and began to walk away.
I was about 30 feet away, when, at that point, all the tiny droplets of water suspended in hot wax settled to the bottom of the pot, then violently "BLURPED" out in one big surge.
So long as the boiling was vigorous enough to keep the water off the bottom, it was fine. As soon as it settled out, it very nearly exploded.
Keep in mind that there was enough of a column of wax over the water to at least slightly raise the boiling point. And then, when the water began to boil, it "relieved" its own pressure, which then left the water "superheated" for all intents and purposes. Even if it was only a tenth of a degree over its boiling point at our altitude, when it surged up, its boiling point dropped back to "normal", and thus it flashed to steam all at once.
Put 3 gal oil in five pail on hot plate at med hi heat. Took two hours to reach 100 degree C. Let it run another half hour. Oil looks like new, got four more batches to do.
Well, yes, I used to do that. This was a lot more violent -- a big POP! and oil sprayed a fair distance.
As I said, I've done that before. I think the last time was when I was around 20 and got the bright idea that I could dry the water out of an oil can I'd left open outdoors. I put it on my dad's new gas grill to heat it; 'wound up running off to buy some more of those lava rocks before he got home.
Yeah. You get a gold star. Now, when you've settled down, you might want to go back and look at my original message, to which you objected, in which I said "watch out, don't let it boil."
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