Fastening a 1/4" threaded stud

I have a new product project that needs a 1/4-20 threaded stud x 2" long, attached to a 3/16" thick steel strip. I could just use a bolt but the bolt
head would get in the way. A carriage bolt would work but would involve punching a square hole in the 3/16" strip. Is there a off-shelf fastener that I could stake in the strip? I've seen such but what do you call them and are they standard off-shelf part? Would it be cheaper to bite the bullet and punch the square hole? (I hate square punches and dies!)
It'll be a cool product and I'll explain all once I get legal status on it. And, I have a new computer controlled wire wheel machine that is almost done, it just needs programming and fixturing. WAY COOL! 1k units a day (on paper) with almost no operator training. We're already starting to make parts for three more. I could buy such machines from Germany at >$180k each.
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They don't stake in (but could be). They're variously called "sled bolts" or "runner bolts". It's basically a flat-head screw (countersunk, of course), but with no slot.
In a pinch, you could use a flat head bolt, and ignore the slot if it doesn't compromise the appearance on the opposite side.
LLoyd
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Give that boy a cookie!
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On 10/21/2010 04:27 PM, Buerste wrote:

Damn. I've seen these -- they're sorta kinda a carrage bolt, but with a knurled shaft instead of square.
PEM makes smaller ones, and may well make the size you want -- I know PEM nuts and PEM studs from hanging out with mechanical sorts designing enclosures, but I can't imagine them not doing the same thing in a bigger size.
Note: It's not going to take oodles and oodles of torque -- turn it too hard and you'll strip out the hole. But that's life.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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Stud welder, and weld-on studs. Simple, quick, cheap enough if you have the volume to support it.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

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On Oct 21, 9:52pm, Ecnerwal

If not, maybe you could tack-weld the heads of Elevator Bolts.
jsw
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On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 19:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

If you're going to weld, use your drill press. drill a hole slightly smaller than the stud. Put stud in drill chuck and drive it in there with unit running at high speed. Makes a great friction weld. Works perfect but i wouldn't want to do more than a hundred.
Karl
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wrote:

I tried on the lathe and couldn't get one to work. When the metal turned red it bent out of line.
jsw
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On Thu, 21 Oct 2010 20:26:01 -0700 (PDT), Jim Wilkins

higher RPM less time. I made a bunch of hubs and arbors this way. Once i had the process debugged, all the time was in chucking both parts. Maybe 2 seconds to weld.
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wrote:

Newer lathe not driven by leather belts?
jsw
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Karl Townsend wrote:

Good idea! (please no disclaimers about how it isn't really YOUR idea.)
How about a for-example? I.e., stud & hole sizes, drill press speed, how long does it take.
Thanks, Bob
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wrote:

Yea, that's the key...I have no idea yet what volume level I'll need. I really don't see more than a couple thousand a month. And, it'll be cost sensitive, almost an impulse buy.
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    Hmm ... how strong does it need to be?
    You might consider using a hefty spot welder to attach the raw stud end to the strap. It sounds as though you have lots of material.
    Or -- you could try "fiction welding". Make a drill chuck to hold it which has the threads cut in the inside so it will grip firmly without marring the threads -- spin up to a scary number of RPM, press down with the feed from the drill press, and when the strap and the end of the stud start to glow, just switch off the motor -- or release a clutch, if your drill press has that, and hold it for a short while as it cools. Then on to the next one.
    Spot welding will probably be quicker -- and less sensitive to the skill of the operator, but the friction welding is more spectacular. :-)

    O.K. We'll be looking forward to the next report.
    Good Luck,         DoN.
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On 10/21/2010 09:42 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:

Now now -- I think there's been enough of that this election cycle already.
--

Tim Wescott
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Would it be really stupid if I suggested cutting allthread to length, then welding it onto the strip? -
Andrew VK3BFA.
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wrote:

Would it be really stupid if I suggested cutting allthread to length, then welding it onto the strip? -
Andrew VK3BFA. **************************
I think a welded stud would be ideal, but if I have to scale production to x-thousands welding would be a bottleneck.
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wrote:

That seems like negative thinking to me. Positive thinking would be more like "how do I get these welds done so it isn't a bottleneck?". A weld could need only a second or two and cost only the energy it takes.
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Good one Don - surely there must be a few small engineering shops that would be eager to do this sort of job....or has it got so bad in your country that a simple thing like this needs a CNC equipped factory to make a simple part.....
Andrew VK3BFA
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