Finished Long Parts Tumbler

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:


How about first tumble something that'll scuff up the inside of the pipe? Maybe a bunch of shattered glass and chain?
--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

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O ring stock grips the pulleys well - I use it in a fishing rod turning machine. Just cut to length and super glue together.
Tim
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Not glass - chards. Use chunks of steel that have a bur. Cut offs from the saw or swarf from the lathe or mill. Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
B.B. wrote:

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That's what's great about this NG... Everybody is a real problem solver.
You might be onto something with that split idea Carl. I'll have to look into it.
And Pete... Yes, I forgot to mention the spray-on idea you had. I just wasn't quite sure how I was going to get it evenly inside the tube. I learned a little more today... I found rubber end caps that have the stainless bands. I just took off the bands and they work a lot better than the ABS caps. They're easier to get on and off, totally water proof, more quiet, and also provide more friction than you could ever need. In fact, too much friction... They started wearing down the shaft hose. I had to put tape on them to stop the chaffing. They also have these "testing" caps, where they have a cap with a rubber cork below it, and then a screw in the middle to expand the rubber. But those are even with the pipe size, so the whole pipe would be rolling.
I'm not a diver... Why do tanks need to be tumbled?
I also found this pipe insulation tape to put inside. It's like 2" wide foamy stuff with very sticky backing. I actually didn't think it would stay on, but it's was still stuck perfectly after running it 3 hours.
Dave
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On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:13:40 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com quickly quoth:

What about the liquid rubber dip stuff? Buy 3 cans and pour it in the tube, rotating it while it coats the inside. Pour the rest back into a can and save it for pliers and other tool handles. http://tinyurl.com/3bhvlu
Or try the brush-on rubber membrane goop used for waterproofing under tiles in the shower. http://tinyurl.com/2poufh
--
Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you.
-- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I wouldn't think it would have to be perfectly even. At any rate, how about a rag wrapped around a round sponge plug and pulled with a string? Pour in the coating and pull the rag wiper through to distribute. A couple coats in each direction should do the trick.

Those test plugs are probably the best option, though you have to account for the few inches on internal length you loose vs. the end caps.

If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big boom).

That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse.
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Ahh... OK, that makes sense.
Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out.
Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other rubber stuff might be an option.
Dave
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On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:15:42 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com quickly quoth:

Undercoating?
Scuff the inside of the tube to give it some tooth, then clean it thoroughly with a good solvent.
--
Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you.
-- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003
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Not undercoating - the bed liners on pickups that are sprayed on. Real nice and tough! Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
Larry Jaques wrote:

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On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 22:10:49 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Neat, what are you going to use for media? (that's the part that always made me skip any tumbler / vibratory toys..errr tools)
--
Take Care,
James Lerch
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How is your generator doing?
i

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On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:23:12 -0500, Ignoramus27577

So far so good. It does what I hoped it would do (keep the HVAC and Lights running).
However, if i had to do it again, I'd select a 4cyl engine. With the single cylinder engine running 60hz @ 1800rpm equals 1 power stroke every 4 cycles. The big flywheel helps smooth this out, but my SmartUPS are too "Smart" and see the fluctuating frequency and refuse to switch over to "utility power" when the HVAC is running.
Its not the end of the world, but does require I shut the "data center" down, pull the Smartups out of the loop, and power up the "data center" again... (kinda annoying.) I might look at getting a little 3kw Honda inverter gen to power the "data center"
The alternative of course would be to build a 5 cyl radial Diesel to power the genset :)
--
Take Care,
James Lerch
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I have the same problem with my 2 cylinder Onan DJE. I am not 100% sure why my UPSes do not like it. Could be frequency or could be something else.
i
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:58:47 -0500, Ignoramus1624

I've done a lot of research and I am confident the issue is the slightly fluctuating frequency between power strokes. If I unload the generator, the Ups will switch to utility power over a fairly wide range of frequencies. 58 - 62hz
I think what's happening is the SmartUps has a local oscillator it adjusts to try and match the utility line frequency. Once it's matched the line frequency it references the local oscillator to measure the voltage error on the utility line. The problem arises when the utility line frequency keeps changing, the repetitive change in frequency shows up as a voltage error to the UPS. For instance, you can see the shift in frequency on the O-Scope picture here:
http://lerch.no-ip.com/ChangFa_Gen/Day_07/Peaks.jpg
I've considered all kinds of odd ways to try and "fix" the issue, but haven't implemented any of them yet because it just works as-is for the most part..
Oh, here's a short list of my "odd" ideas
A) Active rotor power control to modulate the output voltage in real time to fix both voltage AND frequency fluctuations. Not a very efficient fix, but I think it might work.
B) Mechanical weights on the flywheel that extend during a power stroke, and retract during the compression stroke in an attempt to keep the flywheel rpm constant..
C) Various stupid electro-mechanical tricks to make clean 60hz 120vac @ 1.4Kw at the Smartups outlet     1) Rectify to DC, invert back to AC     2) Dc motor powering small generator     3) several large induction motors with massive flywheels attached to line power... For bonus points, enclose flywheels in a vacuum chamber to reduce losses... :)
--
Take Care,
James Lerch
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Jim, thanks for a nice post, I saved it in my archive of notes. It makes total sense. I can live with this issue, but, as you say, it is annoying.
i
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You left out my favorite from that discussion on s.e.d, an elliptical and/or offcenter pulley on the motor to maintain constant generator speed. :-) I know the optimum shape would change with load, but it would look so neat.
-- Regards, Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net (remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying)
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On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 23:31:02 GMT, "Carl Ijames"

LOL.. I believe I left it out becuase it made my head hurt thinking about how to implement it!
However, you have made me think that sometimes the most ellegant solution to a problem is not neccisarilly the most enjoyable to implement.. I swear once I find my mill, I'm going to get a copy of 507 mechanical movements and work on the most complicated frequency stabilization system I can imainge, just cuz... :-)
--
Take Care,
James Lerch
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On Oct 17, 10:19 am, James Lerch

The main parts I'm doing are 1/4" aluminum round pieces. For that, I've found that small river pebbles about 1/8" to 3/16" work best. It's filled with 1/3 pebbles and water, plus a little soap. About 2 hours later they're shinny and smooth. I'm sure walnut shells would make them even better. I've tried a couple larger hollow tubes, but it doesn't work as well on those. I think the tubes fill with the media and the weight makes the parts slam down and get small dents from the media. I ended up using pvc shower basin liner inside. I also switched to using screw tight test plugs on the ends instead of caps. I cut the tops off rubber caps and just used the ring sides on the pipe to work as the gripping surface to turn.
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