food safe instant glue?

nical problem. There's an aluminum piece about 1" x 1/4" x 1/2" that fits o n a steel shaft. The aluminum is split and tightened with a set screw. The problem is that the hole in the AL is somewhat buggered, and I can't tighte n the setscrew enough to get a really solid grip.

thinking that I could just glue the sucker in place. Ordinarily, I'd think that even green loctite 290 would do the job without any disassembly, or e ven just some "Crazy glue". The problem is that neither of them is food saf e, and rules are rules.

ng times measured in tens of hours. The most they'll tolerate here is more like ten minutes, during a lunch break or shift change.

I assume that taking it apart to put in a helicoil or Keensert takes too lo ng.

What about making a replacement part complete with keensert and just remove and replace. Might be faster than putting a keensert in the existing part .

There is crazy glue used in place of stitches in surgery. Don't know if it is food safe, but I would think it is. Maybe contact your local emergency room to find out if the stuff used for surgery is food safe and where to get it.

And then there is something like putting a wooden match stick in a stripped out screw hole. Maybe aluminum wire or wood from a wooden dowel.

I expect none of the above is possible, but they might give you an idea of something that is possible.

Dan

Oh yes , filing a flat or drilling a dimple so the set screw is not trying to grip a smooth shaft.

Dan

If the hole is already bad how about removing the current set screw and replacing it with a different size? IE if it's a metric size - find an SAE that is a bit larger but a close thread and screw that in. Or reverse that if it's SAE. Should work and give you some time.

I can't shut the machine down long enough to do a proper repair, so I was thinking that I could just glue the sucker in place. Ordinarily, I'd think that even green loctite 290 would do the job without any disassembly, or even just some "Crazy glue". The problem is that neither of them is food safe, and rules are rules.

I have found several silicones that are food safe, but they all have curing times measured in tens of hours. The most they'll tolerate here is more like ten minutes, during a lunch break or shift change.

So... any suggestions?

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Stainless shim stock?

This is great thin, stiff material if you can find a small piece:

I've used aluminum auto body tape for shimming, to fit a Morse #2 arbor snugly into my B&S #7 mill spindle for instance, but it might shed particles.

-jsw

move and replace. Might be faster than putting a keensert in the existing part.

f it is food safe, but I would think it is. Maybe contact your local emerg ency room to find out if the stuff used for surgery is food safe and where to get it.

pped out screw hole. Maybe aluminum wire or wood from a wooden dowel.

of something that is possible.

g to grip a smooth shaft.

I appreciate the suggestions, but I guess i wasn't clear. The part does not have a setscrew to hold it on the shaft, it has a clamping screw to squeez e its split hole onto the shaft, and it can't squeeze tight enough.

I have thought about running a hacksaw blade through the slot to allow for more squeeze, but the hole itself is pretty well buggered, and squeezing ti ghter will make for less contact area, I think.

Surprisingly, the cyanoacrylates used in surgery are not designated food sa fe, neither are the UV curing acrylics used in dentistry. Apparently someth ing has changed recently about this, as I see many references on the web to adhesives that are food safe, and then checking the manufacturer's sites, see that they specifically point out that they are NOT food safe. Rhino glu e is one example. Lots of references in various forums, but manufacture is very specific in saying that it is NOT food safe.

while I agree that this is an example of too much government (actually, it' s just two parts of the same agency (FDA) not being on the same page), I ca n't use anything that isn't documented food safe on these machines.

what I may try is drilling the hole round again, and then making a sleeve o f shim stock to snug it up. What do y'll think about that?

We just posted pretty much the same idea at the same time as you. I'm think ing that I might drill the hole out to make it round and then add some shim stock to make it fit. In this particular case, it doesn't have to be SS, a s this machine is wiped down to clean it, rather than washed with a hose.

remove and replace. Might be faster than putting a keensert in the existin g part.

if it is food safe, but I would think it is. Maybe contact your local eme rgency room to find out if the stuff used for surgery is food safe and whe re to get it.

ripped out screw hole. Maybe aluminum wire or wood from a wooden dowel.

ea of something that is possible.

ing to grip a smooth shaft.

ot have a setscrew to hold it on the shaft, it has a clamping screw to sque eze its split hole onto the shaft, and it can't squeeze tight enough.

r more squeeze, but the hole itself is pretty well buggered, and squeezing tighter will make for less contact area, I think.

safe, neither are the UV curing acrylics used in dentistry. Apparently some thing has changed recently about this, as I see many references on the web to adhesives that are food safe, and then checking the manufacturer's sites , see that they specifically point out that they are NOT food safe. Rhino g lue is one example. Lots of references in various forums, but manufacture i s very specific in saying that it is NOT food safe.

t's just two parts of the same agency (FDA) not being on the same page), I can't use anything that isn't documented food safe on these machines.

of shim stock to snug it up. What do y'll think about that?

BTW, see here:

s-permabond/ for permabond's reasoning. I will contact them in the morning to find out about heating epoxies to speed them up, but I don't hold out a lot of hope for making them really fast.

I appreciate the suggestions, but I guess i wasn't clear. The part does not have a setscrew to hold it on the shaft, it has a clamping screw to squeeze its split hole onto the shaft, and it can't squeeze tight enough.

I have thought about running a hacksaw blade through the slot to allow for more squeeze, but the hole itself is pretty well buggered, and squeezing tighter will make for less contact area, I think.

Surprisingly, the cyanoacrylates used in surgery are not designated food safe, neither are the UV curing acrylics used in dentistry. Apparently something has changed recently about this, as I see many references on the web to adhesives that are food safe, and then checking the manufacturer's sites, see that they specifically point out that they are NOT food safe. Rhino glue is one example. Lots of references in various forums, but manufacture is very specific in saying that it is NOT food safe.

while I agree that this is an example of too much government (actually, it's just two parts of the same agency (FDA) not being on the same page), I can't use anything that isn't documented food safe on these machines.

what I may try is drilling the hole round again, and then making a sleeve of shim stock to snug it up. What do y'll think about that?

===========================

I did that a few days ago to replace a missing and out-of-dealer-stock Nyliner bushing on my new-to-me 1995 snowthrower. The job took much longer than 10 minutes, mostly in setup, as in locating the center of the worn original hole. Had it been more precise machinery I would have single-point bored the hole because drill bits follow what's there.

There's a metal version meant to repair worn shafts. The local bearing supply store has one displayed in their lobby but I don't remember who makes them.

-jsw

Can you re-thread it in a bigger size? Can you centerpunch all around the hole? Can you squeeze the piece with a vise-grip and cave in the threads a bit? Can you slice the screw down the middle a bit with a thin blade and wedge the screw?

We just posted pretty much the same idea at the same time as you. I'm thinking that I might drill the hole out to make it round and then add some shim stock to make it fit. In this particular case, it doesn't have to be SS, as this machine is wiped down to clean it, rather than washed with a hose.

============================== Thin brass stock is much easier to find, at a hobby store.

I have aluminum pulley wheels with brass center bushings on my TV antenna guy lines and they haven't corroded.

-jsw

If you split it with a Dremel it should slide onto the shaft.

If that solves the problem do I get (would I want?) a free sample of the product?

-jsw

Put a hose clamp around it. They are made in stainless.

of shim stock to snug it up. What do y'll think about that?

I think I would make a new part with a keensert. The thread should be a fine thread to get more clamping power.

I assume that you can not also make a shaft with a keyway in the shaft and the aluminium part. But maybe you could make a sleeve to fit on the shaft to increase the size of the shaft where the part is clamped on. It could be keyed or silver soldered on or set screw with dimple on shaft. I am ass uming the shaft is something like a 1/4 inch dia. So with a sleeve increas ing the diameter to say 3/4 inch , it would be much less inclined to slip.

Dan

[ ... ]

There are Cyano-accrilate glues which are used for surgical sealing. I would think that they would be food safe -- but you would have to check to be sure. Rules can be strange.

Good Luck, DoN.

Yeah, a hose clamp and some food-safe duct tape would be my suggestion, too. Well, at least for him.

- To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change the world who are causing all the trouble. --Anonymous

Back in the 70's there was high quality methedrine in my neighborhood and a pharmaceutical manufacturer less than two miles down the road. Coincidence? No, it seems they hired the wrong person from my neighborhood to work in the wrong area of the plant. btw, it wasn't me. Mikek

4564

Don - you WOULD think that, but you'd be wrong. That was the first place I looked. Of course, logic says that if it's safe inside your mouth, it would also be safe to get a small fraction of a microgram on a capsule, but thes e are approved under a different set of rules, and if the manufacturer hasn 't specifically applied for a food safe rating, I can't use it.

Those are a good idea, but all are too big - this shaft is less that a quar ter inch. But, I think I'll drill the hole round, insert an aluminum plug, redrill the hole to proper size and then split it with a slitting saw. That ought to make a "good as new" repair. If I had a tig welder, I could just fill the hole... Yet another excuse to spend some money. But, I ought to be able to get this done under a half-hour.

I doubt you'd want anything from here. All they make is generic antibiotics . Though, from the moment I walked in over a year ago, I thought this would make a great location for a remake of Breaking Bad Supersized. Stuff comes out of here in quantities of millions per day. Pretty cool stuff.

Those are a good idea, but all are too big - this shaft is less that a quarter inch. But, I think I'll drill the hole round, insert an aluminum plug, redrill the hole to proper size and then split it with a slitting saw. That ought to make a "good as new" repair. If I had a tig welder, I could just fill the hole... Yet another excuse to spend some money. But, I ought to be able to get this done under a half-hour.

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"Less than a quarter inch" puts it into the range of hobby store telescoping brass and aluminum tubing.