Fuse for HF Dual MIG 151

I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the motor doesn't run.

I should have added that the fuse has F2A250 stamped on the side of one of the caps. It seems to be for protecting the little 12v. wire-feed motor. At least, without the fuse the welder powers-up fine, but the motor doesn't run.

Thanks for you help. It's a tiny little breaker, with an equally tiny wire running through it so I kinda' thought that it'd be 2 amps. But I wasn't sure if it was some sort of part number or something.

Again, thanks!

wrote

But I

Whenever seeking a part, it is a good practice to just carry the old one in, hand it to the geek behind the counter, and let them tell you what it is. That is why I like to go to NAPA stores, and those who hire people who actually know about what they deal in.

But, yes, it IS a very very good idea to always take the old part with you no matter what kind of machinery it is. That is, unless it is just too big or welded down or lots of wires, or the like. Mounting tabs, bolt patterns, casting lugs, lots of things can be just different enough that you won't get an exact match unless you have the old one. No matter what the parts book says. There were lots of models and modifications within a year.

Steve

Go to the harbor freight web site:

Look near the bottom of the page and download the manual.

Ron Thompson On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

-Ron Thompson

That is the 2 amp 250 volt rating. You can find them at Radio Shack or most auto places... - form factor isn't important.

The important part - were you stressing it when it blew - or did something break. Guess you will find that out with the second or third fuse....

martin

Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

snipped-for-privacy@rgs.uci.edu wrote:

You have answerd your own question :-) It is a 2 Amper fuse. (glass-tube)

And i asume the 'glass-housing' is 6X30 millimeter. or it can be the smaller housing ( 5x20millimeter)

"250" means that it is suited for breaking 250 Volt. Do not pay any attention to this parameter. The parameters to apply whit is the HOUSING & AMPERAGE.

Take it whit you to a gas station and i'm sure they have one for you . (bring along the old fuse! )

AP

No, actually you DO have to pay attention to the voltage ratings and the interrupting capacity ratings of any fuse. Because if you install a 2A Automotive glass fuse only rated to break 32VDC at a moderate interrupting rating it will work just fine under normal operating conditions.

But if you put a hard short across that 32V fuse at 240V or higher and there's a healthy current source behind it (10,000A is easy to get, and 22,000A fault current isn't difficult), it may not be able to break the arc - and that arc will quickly start doing major damage to everything in the area.

The fuses designed for higher interrupting ratings use the fiber tube fuses with filler granules and powders inside specifically to quench and snuff the arc when they blow.

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You know, I knew there was a manual for it on the web site, but I just couldn't find it! I was staring at the button the whole time, but just didn't see it. Thanks for pointing it out.

If ya cant find it in So Cal Jeff, Ive got a s*it load of them.

I once bought a couple milk cartons of various fuses for $5

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3