GM brake pins (metal) which tend to rust

Living in the Rochester, NY area. Vehicles rust, and
parts are dificult to remove. The threaded pins for
GM front brakes are often miserable to remove. The
threads are dificult to get to, and tend to rust and lock
up.
What's some of the ways to prevent the rust? And what
are some ways to remove rusted ones?
In the last day or two, I've been helping work on a friend's
car. The T-50 socket tip removed one pin. A metric allen
wrench removed another. And vise grips for yet another.
I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush, and put some
silver Never-Sieze in. He put a dab of neversieze on the
T-50 socket end of the pin, to help keep it from rusting.
Anything else we could have done?
Reply to
Stormin Mormon
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There are silicone caps that will fit over those socket heads. Fill with hi-temp grease first.
Problem with calipers is most of the usual anti-rust treatments won't hold up to the heat. You can help that a bit by using pad shims on the backing plates, and by making sure the caliper piston boots are relatively new. The boots have enough spring to them that they help pull the piston back away from the caliper, so less heat is generated while just driving. Old boots let the pads brush the rotor all the time and they run hotter. I think if it were mine I'd buy a big tube of brake grease and one of antiseize. I'd use the latter on threads, and I'd brush a coat of the grease over everything else, with extra on the external areas around the threaded bits.
Reply to
RBnDFW
I work in Rochester but refuse to live there because, generally speaking, the people there are dickheads. Buffalo is a much nicer place to live in that respect.
Preventative maintenance. I pull the brakes off my vehicles at least once per year to clean then lube threads with never seize and slides / pins with silicone brake grease. New vehicles once per year in the spring. Older high mileage vehicles in the fall and spring.
Reply to
Black Dragon
I ALWAYS use copper antiseize on the sliding bits on disk brakes..and do it carefully of course. Ive had vehicles so treated in the ocean at the beach or driven through creeks and puddles for weeks at a time on vacation or on the job, and they never rusted enough to worry about or need anything special to disassemble
Gunner
I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)
Reply to
Gunner Asch
The boots generally do NOTHING to pull back the pads. That's the job of the square "O" ring seals in the caliper.
The problem Stormy ran into is why I ALWAYS recommended the calipers be "serviced" at least once a year - and preferably 2. "Service" involved pulling , cleaning, and lubing all pins and sliders and pushing back the pistons to check for sticking pistons.
We used a hight temperature anti-sieze on the pins and silicone based brake lube on the sliders.
Reply to
clare
Stormin Mormon wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:07:52 -0400:
Use locktite. No kidding. Find the weakest kind you can(pink?). Holds tight, but will break free.
Heat+kroil(or PB Blaster).
Reply to
dan
Thanks. I had some Kroil, a while back. I should order some more. The last time the brake pins were badly rusted on, I did use heat and beat.
Loctite? Sounds like that would seal the water out?
Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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