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Fastest way to remove rust and paint from flat steel surface/

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus22753
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It's too hard of a task, just give up.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Sandblast ? I had a simular situation and found a guy that did the whole job for $20 back in 1995. The time it saved me was well worth the money and no mess in the shop, i just droped off the parts and picked them up the next day.

Best Regards Tom.

Reply to
azotic

If the rust is only a dusting, and some of the paint comes off with a wire brush, give it a sloppy cleaning, then use 'liquid sandpaper' (TSP). A suitable antirust primer and paint coat should stick, and the appearance can be upgraded from menacing to surly.

Reply to
whit3rd

Hot air gun or propane torch on the paint and then wire brush or scraper. Just make sure you will not blow the tank up from fumes. So use some CO2 or something to displace the air in the tank.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

Ignoramus22753 wrote in news:BqadnXZyMOggnLnWnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I don't know if they still exist, but I have a gadget that goes in an electric drill that consists of a hub attached to 6 or 8 bunches of pivoting wires. They are about 0.05" in diameter, and stiff. It's sort of like a poor man's needle scaler. Once the sharp corners wear off, they don't work as well, but you can square them up on a grinder in no time. I've used mine on a variety of surfaces, including concrete, which is how I know about re-sharpening the thing. It makes a hell of a racket.

I tried a quick search on the web, and couldn't get a good match.

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

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Any automotive paint store carries them.

Reply to
Bill McKee

A neighbor's son almost lost an eye when one of the wires broke off and impaled him in the face.

I've had good results with a medium grit wheel on an angle grinder, not sure why but it doesn't load up with paint too badly. It's the same wheel that I use for auto body final grinding (and lathe bits) and the light scratches disappear after sanding the first prime coat.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Don't know about the paint but I'm a real believer in "Evapo-Rust" for getting rid of rust. Harbor Freight and I think Autozone carry it. Best if you can dip the parts in - just leave overnight without stirring or an hour or so with agitation. They say you can soak a towel, place it on a flat surface, and cover with plastic sheet to cut evaporation. Rewet the towel and shift it around every hour or so. Haven't tried it yet but when I get around to painting my trailer I will. Should work on your tank.

----- Regards, Carl Ijames

Reply to
Carl Ijames

"Carl Ijames" wrote in news:h87Vm.68047$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe21.iad:

I'll second that. It's very good stuff.

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

Bill, thanks. This is what I was looking for. Would you have an idea what grit I want,maybe 36?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus15449

Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy layers of rust and paint.

Unlike the flailing-wire rotary brushes, the needles are unlikely to be launched and cause injury.

Buerste may have a knotted-wire brush to suit.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

I'm with Tom on this. Sandblasting is not only the best prep for paint on steel, but involves no labor on your part other than toting the tank back and forth. My local sandblaster would probably charge around $50 to take that tank to bare metal.

Reply to
Ned Simmons

A neighbor's son almost lost an eye when one of the wires broke off and impaled him in the face.

reply:

Sounds like the kid either didn't notice, could not comprehend, did not or could not read:

WARNING: USE EYE PROTECTION stamped in steel on every brush. Anyone who uses one of those without full face protection earns what they get.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Take it to a body shop and have them hot tank it. About $20.

Reply to
Steve B

You mean regular car body shops?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus15449

Some still hot tank. Lots of M/C shops do, too.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Do not know the grit of the ones I have. Used it on an art welding project, but bought it at Home Depot. Was a Norton Rapidstrip T27. Plus I have a flexible backing plate called a Gatorgrit

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You can attach a scotchbrite type pad to it.

Reply to
Bill McKee

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or chase it around.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or chase it around.

jsw

Same here, they're more suited to a trailer or truck frame, and only if there is rust/flaking paint, not to remove a thin coat of sound paint.

Reply to
ATP*

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