Good air nail gun for crating

I would like to know if anyone can recommend a good air gun that would
be suitable for crating.
I bought a Harbor Freight 18 gauge air gun.
I had to make four crates this weekend (done with 3 so
far). Unfortunately, while it works as advertised, it is not a good
gun for crating. The 18 gauge nails are too thin and do not hold
things very well. So I had to shoot an insane amount of nails to hold
the crates.
I looked at something like this
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and I am not sure if a finish nailer is the right route to take. Maybe
I should use different kinds of nails, as opposed to finish nails? Or
staples?
Any ideas? The kind of crating that I do is using 1/2" OSB and 2x3"
boards.
thank you
i
Reply to
Ignoramus13959
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For crating you may be better off with a narrow crown stapler, Porter Cable makes a nice one. Crating it's like framing with 2x material so a framing nailer isn't very good and a finish nailer isn't appropriate either. Many of the crated items I've dealt with are stapled.
Pete C.
Reply to
Pete C.
Pete, I agree with you. What gauge do you think is apropriate?
How about this one
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16 gauge air stapler by Porter Cable
i
Reply to
Ignoramus13959
Don't piss around with little brad nailers for that work. If you want the stuff to stay together, look at the staplers that are used to put sheathing on houses these days.
Coupla shots with one of those, and stuff stays put.
Cheers Trevor Jones
Reply to
Trevor Jones
I think a medium crown stapler is what you're after. This tool is used for fastening down roof decking on houses. I saw a Duo-Fast for $249 at Home Depot this morning.
Reply to
Gary Brady
My favorite heavy crating gun is a Senco MK III. It shoots 7/16" crown staples up to 2-1/2" long. Great gun.
Here is one on ebay now, Auction # 320069013337
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
I have Senco SKS 1/4" stapler for sale. Good used. I think you can change it to shoot wider staples. I also have a few boxes of staples. Make me an offer I can't refuse. I got it from a shop I worked in. We used it to make exhibit displays. And occasionally to crate something. I can send you pics and maybe even a video if you want.
Ignoramus13959 wrote:
Reply to
Jim Behning
I agree with Pete.
Senco also makes good examples.
Reply to
B A R R Y
I would use drywall screws. Cordless driver and you don't need as many. Also easier for the buyer to disassemble and not totally destroy the lumber.
Reply to
daniel peterman
The NS150A is the one I've used. It's less than half the price as well. The 1/4" narrow crown staples are easy to find, not sure about those 7/16" medium crown ones. The shorter 1 1/2" max length shouldn't be an issue for crating materials.
Pete C.
Reply to
Pete C.
Jim, I think that my 18ga gun can shoot staples too. I will try them today on my last crate (4th out of 4). What gauge is your gun?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus21090
A stapler is definitely the way to go for crating or other uses where appearance is not an issue. For about the same price as the 18 ga brad gun HF has an 18 ga narrow crown stapler the shoots up to 1 5/8" staples. If you need even more holding power, use a 1/2" crown 16 ga stapler and the OSB will break before a staple pulls out.
Reply to
lwasserm
Stapler is the only way to go. I have a Bostich 1" crown unit that I prefer for crates although the 1/2" and 7/16" sheathing staplers will work fine. 1/4" staples are too narrow, they will pull out. I usually do 5 sides witht he stapler, put the top on with 1-5/8" drywall screws for both my convience and the recipant's.
Ignoramus13959 wrote:
Reply to
RoyJ
IME, drywall screws tend to be brittle, and have come apart under minimal shear. If I were to use screws, I'd use general construction or decking screws instead.
Reply to
Steve Ackman
Trevor, thanks for suggesting staples. Since my nailer is also a stapler, I tried 1 1/8" 18 gauge staples, they work much better than little finish brads, and I find this basically acceptable, though not perfect. I think that I will stick to the tool that I have (18 ga nailer/stapler), for now, and will use staples for crating.
Problem solved. Thanks to all for good food for thought and great suggestions.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus21090
Yep, I tried 1 1/8" staples, they work okay. Thanks Pete.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus21090
Not an expert but when you buy staples perhaps check to see if they're coated, it makes a big difference in holding power. Also the type of cut on the points is a variable on some as well; this controls how the staple behaves as it passes through the wood (I always wondered why you'd use anything besides straight driving staples though).
Also a general note: Some guns need oil lubrication, others can be harmed by lubrication, even if earlier models, by the same manufacturer, were not built that way. Check your literature or check with the manufacturer and you may avoid costly time-consuming repairs.
dennis in nca
Reply to
rigger
On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 21:29:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus13959 quickly quoth:
It's definitely not. Finish nails have too small a head.
Staples or cut/full head nails would work much better. Ring shank nails are available and would withstand more vibration than a standard nail in a crate. Gluing the panels to the frames would be even better.
With OSB on the outside, I'd use carpenter's glue between the OSB and boards, and probably use an HF 1/4" (already own) or 7/16" crown (I should buy one for upholstery work) stapler for putting them together. Just don't glue the removable top or side on, eh?
Or use one of these with standard 2" ringshanks:
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Or:
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Reply to
Larry Jaques
Most commercial craters I know, use a staple gun.
Gunner
"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her tits" John Griffin
Reply to
Gunner
If no one takes it..perhaps a trade for something?
Gunner
"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her tits" John Griffin
Reply to
Gunner

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