Paslode nail gun

Rebuilding the garden shed/workshop, I thought, this time, lets have a crack
at a nail gun, instead of all that hammering of nails, and save the
backache. Norm (of New Yankee workshop fame) makes it all look so simple.
Off to the hire shop, I asked all the questions a newbie would, and had a
go. They gave me advice on how to use it, and the model given was assured to
me, was ok for the job. I have never used one of these things before.
Disaster, it was so powerful it not only punched the nails way below the
surface, but also left an ugly "hole".
I think I must have been given a first fix gun.
Question is: what should I have used, a brad nailer (American?) second fix,
or framing gun? Model number would be an advantage, so I can converse with
the seemingly ignorant hire shop.
To be honest, the gun was great and as expected for speed and ease, just
need a more delicate one for fixing 16mm shiplap to a framework, that
doesn't damage the surface.
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I think you can alter the power of the gun with the compressor regulator, or sometimes with a dial on the gun itself?
The difference in the guns is more to do with the size of nail it fires. If the gun you are using will fire the right size of nail, then it should be adjustable to just fire it correctly.
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Was it compressor fed or standalone gas/battery powered? Sounds like you've got a first fix, IM350 if standalone and that's what you should use for knock up a shed, preferably with some nice galvanised annular ring nails. I've got a second fix IM250 which I've used to make some feather edge fencing, OK but the brads are pretty slim (16g IIRC) and I wouldn't think they've be up to much more structural requirements. You should be able to adjust the depth the nail gets bosched in though but even saying that my IM250 seems to do whatever it feels like.
Cheers, Rob
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For a gas gun you need a first fix nailer such as the IM350 as the second fix ones don't have large enough heads to the nails. The depth the nail is driven on these is adjustable and you can also get a cover for the end that stops the spikes marking the wood
Having said that the "clipped" head of this type of nail is still not ideal, you really need an air powered gun which uses coils of collated nails as these have a full head which will hold the feather edge board better.
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Thanks all, I've learnt a few things now, contrary to the hire shops advice.
I asked if the nail depth was adjustable, and was told no. By the way, it is a gas gun, the IM30 mentioned in some replies. So thanks for the advice. I studied some paperwork that came with the hire gun, and found how to adjust depth, and duly did. Much better to say the least. pity there is no sign of the mentioned shoe, to protect the wood surface. I was not aware of this protective shoe, could have done with it !!
The nails (2.8mm X 51mm) are too aggressive for shiplap, they split the wood near the edges. A much finer pin would be better, and the ugly row of nails heads would not show up so much. I recall using aluminium nails on the last workshop, bend easy, but almost invisible from a distance.
Thanks for all the advice, gun to be returned, and back to hammer and nails, and backache !! Bob
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Previous post should have read IM350
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