goofy motor bearings

Better technology - both in the stamping/seal technology, but also lubrication, made "lifetime sealed" bearings possible - and bropught the price WAY down. And the market ate it up - no more greasing!!!!

The only problem being the MFG and BUYER definitions of "lifetime". They want to sell product, we never want to have to buy or maintain anything else after first purchase.

Oh, no. I respected the machinery much more than some of my braindead fellow students.

OMG! Are people really paying those prices? Dolts.

I have one - the long or down in a hole is a bit long and would tip over when most oil was gone. I solved that. I went to the toolbox and got a 'washer' of lead. Dropped in the tank and it sits nicely. The long tube might have been added after sales for an operation.

Mart> >

Might not be so bad IF it was really a brass oiler, but that turkey is plated steel.

I just bought 5 of those from a Chinese vendor. They were gritty and noisy, and had apparently not been lubed prior to the metal seals being installed. I cleaned them and lubed them with white lithium spray grease, then installed them in my extremely high-speed glider rocking chair. I wouldn't use them in any faster machinery, and I did get a full $2.86/5)refund for them, to credit the vendor for his honesty. The old chair bearings were fully Brinelled and weeping rust dust. I'd have though the new bearings were cleaned used bearings, but there were no installation scrape marks anywhere on any of the outside races.

But most electrical machines from HFT (and Grizzly) I've bought have had very decent bearings in them. I can't recall a single bearing failure in new Chiwanese tool since I started buying them in the late '70s. Electrical failures: yes, bad bearings: no. I lost my brand new cutoff saw within a minute due to a loose brush contact. It fried both the brush and commutator. But not the windings, surprisingly.

And whatever you do, stay away from the Greenlee clone knockout punches. I think the threaded rod is 18mm and the dies 19mm, though they both have the same thread pitch. #60575 = run away, run away!

Januwine "brass look" finish, eh?

If somebody over greased it, the grease would push through the shieleds and then spray off the shaft all over the inside of the motor. I think I've seen this before. The grease is not good for the windings.

Jon

First of all, a full brass anything would melt down in a few years as the zinc would be dissolved by airborne chlorine. Brass is pretty, but using it in the shop it can be tricky.

Mart> >

My yellow #66 oiler doesn't attract a strong magnet.

--jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:njji0r$gsd $ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I have no idea where such an idea comes from! I have lots of little various-geometry 'shim devices' I've had for decades (for model-making), all made of plain yellow brass -- some as thin as 0.001".

I've got a number of non-ferrous tools, too, for working with explosives. Most of the commercial ones are bronze, but the ones we have made in-shop are mostly plain brass.

NONE of them have "melted down"... nor even corroded beyond plain "tarnish".

Come to think of it, none of the brass decorative items in my home have "melted down", either!

Lloyd

The only place I have had brass fail in that manner is when it was in contact with aluminum. As I have learned, using brass bolts threaded into an aluminum housing is a really bad idea.

"Robert Nichols" wrote in message news:njmc34$q7v$ snipped-for-privacy@omega-3g.local...

These hoses have aluminum end fittings:

I put Ox-Gard on the end that threads to the brass faucet, to see what happens compared to the other end attached to plastic.

LPS-3 has protected aluminum in contact with brass on my antenna pulleys exposed to rain water, but didn't help much on a shop-made outdoor faucet handle exposed to chlorinated town water. The outer end of the handle, a brass rod pressed through the aluminum, has only a little corrosion.

--jsw

In my case, the bolts, which were clamping an antenna rotator to the mast, still looked fine, but lost much of their strength and broke after a few years.

--jsw

I have seen a motor that had a pipe plug that one removed first and then put grease into a zerk fitting until grease came out the pipe plug hole. So with a unshielded bearing oven greasing would not get grease on the windings.

It was a long time ago, and I am not sure what would happen if the bearings had been replaced with shielded bearings.

Dan

I haven't tested mine, but I know it is oily. That likely keeps the zinc protected. Might be a silicon bronze. That is a yellow gold like color. Strong like steel (not as and many things different)

- but one can mill it and file it and hammer upon it.

Mart>> First of all, a full brass anything would melt down in a few years

It depends on the oil on the cans, chlorine in the air and acids in the oil and working fluids. In working shops it is safe. In static or a home shop it is possible like the pipes in the house corrode inside less than the outside in places.

Acids abound. Paper has it, wood has it, air has it. Water has it. Depends on the shielding it has (oil) and the like.

Mart> "Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:njji0r$gsd

Copper goes nuts with iron/steel joints or placement. Ionic depletion of the zinc and copper creates corrosion in the ferrous and cupric joint.

Try having a tank of Ferric chloride. (sometimes used in PCB etching) and drop in (caution with shield!!!) some Aluminum foil. Fire and light!

Mart> >> "Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:njji0r$gsd