Gunsmith question (blackening)

Iggy, This depends on the investment you want to make. If it's a quick and dirty, go to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black. Of course it looks like it is, a patch job. If you want to do it right, you must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath at 295 F. The blueing salt can also be purchased from Brownells. If you do not return to white metal, you will get blotching. If you want to do the latter, read a book, it can be tricky, but not difficult. I used to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a salt bath. the key is clean, clean and very, very clean. Not even skin oil. So we are talking about white cotton gloves. Steve

Steve, thanks, this is a cheap little kids shotgun. Not worth the hassle of a salt bath.

i

Iggy, FWIW, and to expand on what Steve says about hot-tank bluing, if someone recommends a cold-rust blue to you, which doesn't require the tanks, even that will be very blotchy if you don't get rid of ALL of the rust and get back down to white metal. Cold-rust bluing (or browning or blacking -- you can get several different colors with different solutions) does not work right where there's existing rust.

I've done cold-rust bluing and browning with good success on a new barrel, and on tools, but that isn't going to do it for you any more than hot-tanking is. As Steve says, your best bet is to get one of the quick blacking solutions from Brownells and see how good you are at doing makeup. d8-)

Oxpho blue works well.

It sounds good. Someone else recommended it here, years ago, but I haven't tried it. I think Iggy is looking for black though, no?

Oxpho Blue is an unfortunate name. The solution is a pretty blue color. The end result on cold rolled mild steel, which is what I've used in on, is an opaque black.

Aha. That could be useful on tools. Maybe it's what Iggy needs, after all.

I'll second that. I used it to redo a friends beater shotgun many years ago.

Wes

Brownell's offers several cold-blueing solutions. Oxpho blue is probably the easiest to use because it is most tolerant of residual oil and even rust.

Take a nice new brass bore brush, about 35 caliber for a rifle..and simply brush away the rust with a bit of WD40. If you want to make it "pretty"..get a bottle of G96 instant Blue and with a clean bore pad..wipe it on. Follow directions of course.

Any of the Instant blues are ok..some are better than others

"VAN'S INSTANT GUN BLUE " is one of the best.

Gunner

I am definitely looking for black color.

i

I do not know,the web page talks about "bluing"?

i

I think you'd have to talk to the people who have used it. Some "blues" are pretty weird on some alloys. Try Brownell's Plum Brown cold rust solution some time. I've used it on tools and I've gotten all kinds of colors, from dead-flat brown to something that's almost purple.

I can assure you the finish it puts on cold rolled 1018 is as black as can be. How much it'll differ on other steels I can't say.

See this under Feature #6 on Brownell's page: "...rub the bright areas briskly and they are as black as before, but tougher."

Oh..if you want Black...cold black oxide is fairly cheap and works well.

$19.95 for a 4oz gel kit.

Gunner

to Brownells and get a small bottle of gun black.

must repolish to white metal and reblue in a salt bath

return to white metal, you will get blotching. If

used to do it a lot, but I no longer maintain a

we are talking about white cotton gloves.

Salt baths (sodium hydroxide, nitrite, nitrate IIRC) are also corrosive as all hell and very nasty. I used to do this stuff, but decided it's just too much trouble. Adding water to the salt solution at 295 F has to be done very carefully. The temperature is maintained by the concentration, so water must be added back as it boils out. If you decide to do this, wear plenty of protective gear and keep your kids well away. Brownell's has lots of info on it if you want to read up.

Pete Keillor

I use Birchwood-Casey:

I like the paste for large surfaces as it is less blotchy. It is definitely more black than blue. Something like this:

I didn't know Caswell had come out with that 4 oz gel. I've used their cold black oxide on a number of projects and have always been pleased with the results. I've had more consistent results with that than with any of the Birchwood-Casey or Brownell's products. Photo of one example at

Use ultra-fine steel wool and light oil to remove the rust(WD40 works) and will not remove the remaining blue. DON'T SAND. Degrease thoroughly, chlorinated brake cleaner on a clean rag works. Brownell's Oxpho Blue can be used on a strip of rag and shoeshined on the area. Repeated applications will deepen the color. You get a blue-black color when done. Pour out what you think you'll need out of the bottle into a separate container, returning used swabs, solution or rags to the bottle will contaminate it. Degreased untra- fine steel wool or bronze wool(better) can be used to improve the appearance.

I have also used the .44/40 blue, it's a fast way to get a black, but not as durable. Dicropan T-4 gives about the same finish as the Oxpho Blue but is a little more finicky to get larger areas to blend.

Any of this stuff needs a Hazmat charge to order, haunt the local gun shops to see what you can turn up. Some Wal-Marts have the Birchwood Casey line, if it's what you can get, apply it as above. Just may not wear as long. Most of the cold blues rely on chemically depositing a layer of copper on the cleaned steel, then blackening that. Has selenium in it, don't lick your fingers after!

Stan