Hello??

Sep 16, 2025 Last reply: 9 months ago 67 Replies
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Thought that Jack looked really promising when it came out at HF. Kept reading the reviews as they came in and it didn't impress me so much anymore...

This is the HF jack I would get if my current old one craps out:

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It can lift from 3-3/8 to 24-1/4 in. It's heavier than I'd like but has one of the highest lifts of any of their offerings. That ~24 inches would be really nice for the mower.

I mostly use mine to lift the front of my riding mower so I can scrape off/out the deck after mowing. Used on vehicles too so the low side is also important.

Never gotten around to it... but always wanted to build a skid plate for use on soft ground for these type of jacks. Would probably need to be

1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Two shallow channel irons to fit the wheels and properly spaced (welded together) for width would likely be lighter. Probably harder to source too. The jack wheels need to be free to move slightly fore and aft or eventually you'll damage your jack on soft ground.
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OUCH! I've a similar long ponytail. I always tuck it under my shirt when doing this kind of work. Best to tuck between shirt and sweatshirt but not really an option when it's HOT out. It stays put there pretty well too.

Creepers always look and sound like a great way to work under vehicles. But the wheels are always bumping into your tools, parts... getting stuck in cracks in the cement and then you loose 2-4 inches of space to maneuver in. Cardboard seems the best solution for meπŸ˜†οΈ

Never gotten around to it... but always wanted to build a skid plate for use on soft ground for these type of jacks. Would probably need to be

1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Two shallow channel irons to fit the wheels and properly spaced (welded together) for width would likely be lighter. Probably harder to source too. The jack wheels need to be free to move slightly fore and aft or eventually you'll damage your jack on soft ground. Leon Fisk

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I've used scrap 2x12 under a floor jack to gain enough height for jackstands. I needed to slide close on cardboard beside the jack to roughly center the pad under the lift point so the jack had to move in all directions. I couldn't see to do that while standing. With the Badlands it's possible but not easy to raise the pad close and slide it into place while lying next to it. The $20-and-fix-it Viking is easier to move and operate lying down but the Badlands lifts almost 10" higher, nice for changing riding mower blades when the front lift point is high already. The Viking fix was replacing a lost snap ring to keep an arm end on its shaft.

I've lost a few beard hairs to a drill motor ... and got it shortened one day when I got too close to my forge . It only goes down 1/3 instead of halfway to my waist now . My creeper doesn't work well on gravel ...

Creepers always look and sound like a great way to work under vehicles. But the wheels are always bumping into your tools, parts... getting stuck in cracks in the cement and then you loose 2-4 inches of space to maneuver in. Cardboard seems the best solution for meπŸ˜†οΈ Leon Fisk

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I use all the choices depending on the vehicle, where it's parked and what needs doing.

The foam sleds are washable so I can stay clean enough to sit in the car afterwards. They pad rough and wet surfaces the best. I keep one under the rear compartment mat to kneel on for roadside tire changes and protecting the seat if carrying lumber etc.

Cardboard combines ease of sliding with maximum clearance. It can't be washed and rocks puncture it so it's best on pavement. A large box folded flat can serve to lie on or contain to-be-cleaned stuff, for example junkyard car parts.

I like a creeper when the job requires moving around, such as an exhaust, removing/replacing a bumper and splash shield or spraying rust inhibitor. My sister gave me a Bone creeper for Christmas, her husband is a mechanic. It has larger wheels that swivel well and handle cracks better than the Autozone webbing creeper. The caster lumps can restrict arm reach. It rolls easily, too easily when struggling with a rusted bolt. It's my choice for more extensive jobs when the car is raised on ramps and I'm moving under and out frequently.

On good pavement the Autozone creeper is good enough, less restrictive to raised arms and it folds to take less space in the car, to go help someone. Spilled oil or antifreeze drains through the webbing instead of pooling under me.

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I liked the looks of those "Bones" creepers too. Until I started seeing them stuck in peoples trash carts along the road with the castor area busted out of them. As I recall it was a small circular area right at the top of the bulge for the castorπŸ™„οΈ

I realize there are people who can break anything but I've seen them several times now and I don't get out much anymore.

At least the old style from years ago was fixable. New castors and board slats can still be had...

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Thanks for the update to what you found and likely repaired. If you were to quit posting right now, in a few years or less I'd be hard pressed to remember your name. But that little fix you made will be stuck in my head till dementia kicks it outπŸ˜†οΈ

Hmmm, a creeper on tracks ...

Segway had some snowblower tracks to play with, but no one did.

I had a yard sale choice between a wheeled and a tracked snowblower, either for $100, neither running well. The tracked machine was considerably harder to maneuver on grass so I took the wheeled one and fixed the relatively little that was wrong with it, mostly replacement of worn parts. Apparently tracks are better on gravel, wheels with chains on icy pavement.

In August I rode in a WW2 half track at a tank museum event. They had a dirt track loop in the woods suited to motocross and zipped around it as fast as the driver dared, like a roller coaster but without seatbelts.

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Thanks for the update to what you found and likely repaired. If you were to quit posting right now, in a few years or less I'd be hard pressed to remember your name. But that little fix you made will be stuck in my head till dementia kicks it outπŸ˜†οΈ

One of my neighbors has one of those 6 wheel drive side by side ATV's and he's bugshit crazy with it . I've been on 45° slope with him , the only thing keeping us "upright" was centripetal force . Speaking of machines that need a little work , my neighbor has gifted me a 2007 Arctic Cat 650 4 wheeler . Runs but not well and needs a new battery , pulls hard to the right - likely a hung brake caliper - and could use new tires but I ain't complaining . He has decided he doesn't want to mess with all the little problems . I'm turning into a home for busted machinery ... every piece of my yard equipment came to me either broken or needing worn parts replaced . Exceptions are a chainsaw and line trimmer that were bought new . That's OK though , I rather enjoy bringing old machines back into use . Speaking of which , I've got most of the problems on my "new to me" Yanmar tractor sorted out . Lucky for me the electrical system hasn't been molested very much , I still have to track down why the overheat light has no power and I'm rewiring the intake preheat device for manual control . Most expensive so far has been replacing all the bearings and seals in the front axle knuckles . Replacing the throwout bearing is the only "big" thing left , and it's not so bad yet that it can't wait .

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I liked the looks of those "Bones" creepers too. Until I started seeing them stuck in peoples trash carts along the road with the castor area busted out of them. As I recall it was a small circular area right at the top of the bulge for the castorπŸ™„οΈ

I realize there are people who can break anything but I've seen them several times now and I don't get out much anymore.

At least the old style from years ago was fixable. New castors and board slats can still be had... Leon Fisk

----------------------------------- Thanks. I checked and mine looks OK. I think I could slit, overlap and spot weld sheet steel into a bowl shaped repair patch. It helps to end the slits in small drilled or punched holes. I've hammered steel as thick as 14 gauge into compound curves.

Were there any nearby grades where kids might have used them as sleds?

Just don't use cardboard when using the deathwheel or welder or torch!!!!

I still have one from the late 40s or early 50s and one from the late

60s - both still work but NOT on the pave-stone driveway!!

First thing to do when troubleshooting power circuit boards is look for bad solder joints - and if you don't find any, resolder EVERY JOINT. Fixed about 80%.

Had to do a lot of soldering too. Had two pencils, a kinda pencil vacuum sucker and a 250 watt gun at my work bench. The vacuum unit had a pretty strong heater in it, sometimes used it for soldering to supplement the 60 watt pencil.

I had several magnifiers too. A 7x Loupe was the most useful. Also had a "microscope" shaped like a fat Sharpy pen. It was useful some of the time if you could get a bright light, focal distance and angle all aligned at the same timeπŸ™„οΈ

I spotted an Optivisor 2x Model on AZ several years ago that had been returned for a nice price and bought it. Also have the flip up/down booster (LP1 OptiLoupe, Adds 2.5X) for one eye for it but haven't put it on. The working distance on it is pretty close-up which kinda limits its usefulness for me.

I'm really near sighted, I can push my glasses up or take them off and do a fair job checking solder joints that way. Suspect far sighted people would find the Optivisor a lot more helpful...

First thing to do when troubleshooting power circuit boards is look for bad solder joints - and if you don't find any, resolder EVERY JOINT. Fixed about 80%.

------------------------------ Measuring the voltage drop from where power and ground enter the board to where it appears on component leads sometimes reveals open or poor connections, but it requires a schematic or board tracks that can be traced, and touching a lead can move and temporarily restore an open joint, as with this relay pin. It's more certain than checking resistance because probe contact doesn't affect the reading.

In the early 80's incomplete plating inside through holes occurred, we had a hand-held fisheye microscope to visually inspect them. Wave soldering touched only the bottom of the board and depended on capillary action between the lead and the hole plating to solder the top, which could fail at a hole plating break and leave the component side track disconnected. The fix was top-soldering IF you knew where to check. In addition to all component leads I've had to solder a piece of bus wire into every via. The problem had been mostly solved by the time surface mount came out.

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Previously boards had been thoroughly cleaned in Freon vapor degreasers before wave soldering. Once Freon was banned there was no equally adequate and acceptable substitute for cleaning boards enough for machine soldering. Room temperature Isopropyl alcohol mostly worked, but it couldn't be distilled like Freon in the degreasers because the hot fumes are flammable. Boards had to be handled with cotton gloves and we found that vending machine products were coated with silicone to make them slide easily, which inhibited solder from sticking if transferred from fingers.

Production engineering could be contracted out to a consultant, often an in-house engineer or tech who better understood the product's function and company's abilities and had demonstrated problem-solving talent was given the added task. Richard, this is what you have and are doing.

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consultant who took the desk beside me spent much of his valuable time on the phone negotiating the next job.

It's a somewhat thankless job, when a manager calls in help they are admitting they couldn't fix it themself. A problem may be passed around until someone demonstrates progress on it, that's how I got into digital radio and laser space communications, I was the least unfit for the tasks.

A can-do attitude can be both helpful and risky. Many of the big names/talents in manufacturing had quit their previous jobs after fights. Albert Champion was behind both AC and Champion spark plugs for that reason. Usually the discord is hidden but the media showcases Trump's personnel disputes as if they (and he) were abnormal. I'd be more concerned if his subordinates were all sycophantic yes-men, he tolerates dissenting opinions.

I asked Trump about cooperation before the first election but he hedged his answer, he may have been unsure of it. In New Hampshire most Republican candidates for President but no Democrats since Bill Bradley meet with voters in person and are willing to mingle within the crowd and risk unscripted questions as Trump did. Many politically attentive citizens here attend Town Meetings and follow the rules of order in public discussions, such as staying quiet while a designated person is speaking. I pay attention to who does or doesn't distrust and fear us.

<snip - conversing about using old kids sledding sheets for creepers>

Maybe, but I haven't noticed any sticking out of trash carts. Kids don't seem to play outside much anymore. I walk A LOT and regularly pass homes that have kids but they're never outsideπŸ˜‘οΈ

I'm going to watch for sleds this year at my regular Mega-store and see what they look like. Don't recall seeing what you've been describing...

When I looked for an example I saw only fancier ones at higher prices. Mine are like wet suit foam with a solid back layer and cost under $10 at spring clearance. A closed cell foam camping mattress is similar, without the solid backing.

I was very nearsighted too and didn't need optics to check soldering. I could read the state names on the cornice of the Lincoln Memorial on a $5. With age my sharp focus moved out to reading and computer distance and far vision improved. Viewing a distant object through a small hole between my thumb and two fingertips "stops down" the outer part of incoming light and improves sharpness.

I USED to be able to see fine details up close even in questionable light - but I was YOUNG then!!! now even with good light and my glasses AND a magnifier the details sometimes escape me. That's when I pull out the temperature controlled pencil and the roll of solder and reflow every joint that looks anything CLOSE to a possible problem.

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