Help! Sharpening meat slicer blade

I've never personally done one, but how about a whet stone, on the edge while the blade is spinning?

Be ultra careful.

Or, whet stone while the blade is separate.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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Voila!!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

The easiest two ways are:

1) Buy a new blade from the maker.

or

2) Send it to the maker for sharpening.

However -- if you want to do it yourself, for the main part of the blade, hold a fine oilstone (e.g. a hard Arkansas stone) almost parallel to the bevel on the backside while the motor turns it at normal speed. Lubricate with a honing oil, of course, and move the stone around so you don't form notches in the stone.

However -- for the notches in the blade, the way which makes sense to me is:

1) Machine up an arbor to mount it to an index/dividing head, and set it up to form multiple of the number of notches.

2) Set the index/dividing head so the profile of the notches is parallel to the base of the index/dividing head.

3) Take a thin stone wheel on a surface grinder, and using a diamond point, dress the stone to match the shape of the notches.

4) Use the surface grinder to grind the notches just a little deeper.

Not trivial, and requires tools which you may not have. (You might be able to find some other way with whatever tools you have to hand. But something like the index head is required to assure the notches are all the same depth.

You may be able to get away with just the first part -- sharpening the main bevel. Try that first, and if that is not enough, then you need to consider fixturing for the notches.

Depending on the size and shape of the notches, you might be able to match it to a mounted stone point on a Dremel or the like. You will still need some kind of indexing, and some way to mount the Dremel so the depth of the notches is the same all the way around it.

Good Luck, DoN.

Kevlar gloves and an 8" 1200-grit diamond plate would be the quickest method. Hone the edge, flatten the back, and strop it perfect. (They're single-sided blades, right? If not, hone both sides and deburr with the strop.)

Wow, there sure are a lot of "Hey, hold my beer and watch this!" posts there, mon. Scary shit, Maynard.

Chef Frank hones his knives on the fine stone and THEN steels them? Moron. You want to straighten them first. I don't see where they got the "sharpen a meat slicer" name for that video, unless he calls his chef's knives "meat slicers." (first google link)

Sounds like a Chefs Choice? Blade looks like a saw blade from the side?

Those get sharpened from the back. They make a sharpener for them, something like 40 bucks or so.

Than ks for the reply DoN, I forgot to add that the blade is no longer available. Eric

Have you done this Larry? I was thinking along the same lines. Though I don't have any Kevlat gloves I would arrange things so that a slip won't result in a trip to the emergengy ward. Eric

Greetings Steve, The machine is a Rival brand machine. I wonder if the Chef's Choice is the same machine. Anyway, my machine is pretty old, which is probably why blades are no longer available. But I will check out the Chef's Choice sharpener. In a worst case scenario I could drill out the rivets holding the gear to my existing blade and attach a new blade. I can drill new holes in the new blade with a carbide drill. Eric

No, not a big meat slicer blade. I've done a 4" disc. It was a bit tricky. I think I'd find a way to spin it slowly and hold the hone to it if I were to do a larger blade like that more than once.

Consider that A Good Thing(tm). I think any gloves would be a help. Wet rawhide would give you a good grip, I think.