We had a local store open up and they have the metal cutting band saw
for 150 bucks or so. I bought one of these cheap bandsaws at TSC
several years ago and went through two of them before I finally
returned them and bought a chop saw. The problem was the blade cutting
3 inch square tubing crooked.
Should I try it again or not?
stryped fired this volley in news:dece389d-4d46-
Try truing up your blade guides instead. That uses up lots less gasoline
and emotional energy.
(few bandsaws cut absolutely dead-on square, and never, ever with a worn
If the part of the blade guide that holds the ball bearings is bolted
to the slotted extension bar then they can be tweaked to cut straight.
Put the saw on a flat level floor when you do it so the bed doesn't
twist. The cast iron flexes a lot more than you might think.
A definite "maybe". If you used the blades that came with the saw,
then I'd try again. Get a high quality blade. A good one will cost
about $20 or so. Doall, etc.
Read this link:
Sorry to say, the old 4X6FAQ seems to be gone.
It was at:
If you're talking about this sort of thing
,which I have had one of for maybe 10 years now, I have cut 2" aluminium
plate and 1" bronze plate with it without problem. Use a good blade, I
usually use Lenox which is what J&L stock in the UK in the size
required. Main thing to bear in mind is the limited throat with the
frame being behind and to the left of the blade, many times I have had
to think through the operations to get the cuts completely through the
part, where a dedicated vertical with deeper throat wouldn't have had a
I don't see why not. Just set the band speed for slow (belt pulleys)
and take it easy. I found that you can sit on the bed when the thing is
vertical. Puts you down at the level of the work and makes it a lot
more comfortable. Just down forget to put the lock pin in, that is
unless you relish the idea of a face full of bandsaw. It is limited to
the width it can cut in vertical because of the saw frame but I haven't
really found that to be a problem.
I should have hung up, gone downstairs and looked before writing that.
The blade guide bar is solid, the slot is in the casting. Mine is a
Delta and a few parts are different from the HF model. The blade
guides can be rotated slightly to square up the blade to the table.
I can get it to cut square within 0.005" per inch vertically but I
have to use it where I adjusted it because my basement floor isn't
completely flat. Usually I cut a piece at least 1/16" oversize and
mill or belt-sand it square.
I've cut steel 1/2" thick and 6" wide, lying flat, with a well-used
10/14TPI blade. Took about half an hour. My saw occasionally jams so I
stay near enough to hear it and shut it off.
Your 3/16" triangles shouldn't be a problem as long as the stock will
fit flat in the vise. I'd angle the vise and cut one triangle off each
end, then square it and cut the next two. If you need more than 4 you
can set the vise at 45 and flip the stock over after each cut. Free-
hand angles and notches on small pieces are easier and safer if you do
them before cutting the piece off the bar.
The $150 deal is good. I built a more rigid base for mine. Also added
hydraulic downfeed. Ran it daily in my small shop until I bought a 7x10.
Somebody will pipe up with the FAQ on these, as they are quite common (as
well as the questions).
As always, any piece of equipment from HF needs to be regarded as a
partially assembled kit...