We had a local store open up and they have the metal cutting band saw for 150 bucks or so. I bought one of these cheap bandsaws at TSC several years ago and went through two of them before I finally returned them and bought a chop saw. The problem was the blade cutting
If the part of the blade guide that holds the ball bearings is bolted to the slotted extension bar then they can be tweaked to cut straight. Put the saw on a flat level floor when you do it so the bed doesn't twist. The cast iron flexes a lot more than you might think.
If you're talking about this sort of thing ,which I have had one of for maybe 10 years now, I have cut 2" aluminium plate and 1" bronze plate with it without problem. Use a good blade, I usually use Lenox which is what J&L stock in the UK in the size required. Main thing to bear in mind is the limited throat with the frame being behind and to the left of the blade, many times I have had to think through the operations to get the cuts completely through the part, where a dedicated vertical with deeper throat wouldn't have had a problem.
I don't see why not. Just set the band speed for slow (belt pulleys) and take it easy. I found that you can sit on the bed when the thing is vertical. Puts you down at the level of the work and makes it a lot more comfortable. Just down forget to put the lock pin in, that is unless you relish the idea of a face full of bandsaw. It is limited to the width it can cut in vertical because of the saw frame but I haven't really found that to be a problem.
I should have hung up, gone downstairs and looked before writing that. The blade guide bar is solid, the slot is in the casting. Mine is a Delta and a few parts are different from the HF model. The blade guides can be rotated slightly to square up the blade to the table.
I can get it to cut square within 0.005" per inch vertically but I have to use it where I adjusted it because my basement floor isn't completely flat. Usually I cut a piece at least 1/16" oversize and mill or belt-sand it square.
I've cut steel 1/2" thick and 6" wide, lying flat, with a well-used
10/14TPI blade. Took about half an hour. My saw occasionally jams so I stay near enough to hear it and shut it off.
Your 3/16" triangles shouldn't be a problem as long as the stock will fit flat in the vise. I'd angle the vise and cut one triangle off each end, then square it and cut the next two. If you need more than 4 you can set the vise at 45 and flip the stock over after each cut. Free- hand angles and notches on small pieces are easier and safer if you do them before cutting the piece off the bar.
The $150 deal is good. I built a more rigid base for mine. Also added hydraulic downfeed. Ran it daily in my small shop until I bought a 7x10. Somebody will pipe up with the FAQ on these, as they are quite common (as well as the questions).
As always, any piece of equipment from HF needs to be regarded as a partially assembled kit...