Hole saws

Another recent thread got me thinking:

In the near future I shall have to cut a doughnut like structure from

0.5-1.0 mm brass. The outside diameter 114 mm, the hole diameter 57 mm. The cut has to be a) clean and b) reasonably accurate (within1 mm).

There are number of options:

1) Snips 2) Fret saw 3) Jig saw

The concern is about the final edge appearance with these three. I fear that even supported the edge is going to get ripped up by the saw (especially the jig) and there will be some bending with the snips.

I have never used a hole saw and I believe that sizes reasonably close to those above are available. How good are these things at producing clean edges?

Another option I was wondering about is using a router with a straight 1/4" cutting bit. I have a very nice small circle jig which allows for increasing radii by 1/16" and does a really nice job in wood. Has anyone tried this with brass or aluminium? I am thinking supporting the brass plate on a piece of wood and having at it.

Finally, thre are these Roto tools for cutting dry wall which come with bits ostensibly capable of cutting non-ferrous metals. I tried one of these bits in a Dremel tool cutting kydex freehand but not with great succes due to lack of control. Some sort of jig would definitely be needed. The advantage is that the bits are about 1/8" diameter.

My supply of brass is limited and I am trying to make sure that I know what I am doing rather than using a "try it and see" approach.

Reply to
Michael Koblic
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Reply to
JR North

Woodworkers routinely cut thin soft meals by sandwiching them between two sheets of thin plywood. Use double sided tape or glue to adhere the assembly together. You can then saw with whatever power saw you have on hand. A router with a straight sided carbide bit will clean the edges up quite nicely. Use a solvent or heat to soften the adhesive and open the sandwich. Art

Reply to
Artemus

Use a wood like a dense particle board, bore a hole the proper diameter in the board, clamp your brass over the hole and drill a pilot hole for your router bit, rout out the inner hole. Then make a second jig the diameter of your outer cut, use a turned dowel to locate the center hole in the center of the outer ring, clamp and rout.

Aluminum routs very well, I assume brass will too, the soft metal will stick in the bit, so take light cuts and coat the bit with a good lube before, during and after.

Stuart

Reply to
Stuart Wheaton

Get tubes with the right dimensions and turn or grind a knife edge. With the sheet on a block of hardwood tap the tube through it with a hammer.

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Barring the use of a metal lathe which makes the process trivial, here's another choice:

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up on Google

The local hardware store has these in two sizes on the peg, I've used them on plastic, wood and thin sheet metal. Best used in a drill press. For thin sheet metal, you're going to want to sandwich the stuff between two sheets of wood, preferably with some sort of easily removed glue or contact cement(shellac?). When I use one of these, I put a hole in the center of the workpiece with the drill bit, then swap it out for a rod so the pivot hole doesn't get wallowed out. You want to run this thing sloooow, some cheapy drill presses won't go that slow. The workpiece gets clamped, you adjust the flycutter radius for the outside and cut that first. Then do the inside. 1mm tolerance shouldn't be too hard to do, just be careful measuring and setting the cutter. I've done wooden toy wheels with one.

Stan

Reply to
stans4

If you look at Abrasha's website you will see he has done just about what you are needing to do. His videos are amazing!

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Reply to
Michael

Barring the use of a metal lathe which makes the process trivial, here's another choice:

formatting link
up on Google

The local hardware store has these in two sizes on the peg, I've used them on plastic, wood and thin sheet metal. Best used in a drill press. For thin sheet metal, you're going to want to sandwich the stuff between two sheets of wood, preferably with some sort of easily removed glue or contact cement(shellac?). When I use one of these, I put a hole in the center of the workpiece with the drill bit, then swap it out for a rod so the pivot hole doesn't get wallowed out. You want to run this thing sloooow, some cheapy drill presses won't go that slow. The workpiece gets clamped, you adjust the flycutter radius for the outside and cut that first. Then do the inside. 1mm tolerance shouldn't be too hard to do, just be careful measuring and setting the cutter. I've done wooden toy wheels with one.

******

I forgot about these! I looked at them some time ago but dismissed them on account of the said cheapo drill press. However, since last month I have been a proud owner of a new drill press that goes down to 220 rpm. That should be OK for a 4-1/2" circle?

The hint about the swapping the drill bit for a rod seems crucial, thanks.

Sadly, lathe has been so far present only in my dreams...

Reply to
Michael Koblic

Thank you. I had a look. Now I am depresssed. Please see the following link, not to boast but mainly to demonstrate the ever so slight difference in the level of skill.

Reply to
Michael Koblic

These can be very interesting to use cutting a hole in car body metal powered by a 2000 RPM, non variable drill motor. DAMHIKT Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

He is a marvelous craftsman. He is also an Idiot Savant. Good for one thing (other than composting) and one thing only.

You are multi talented compared to him, if you can at least tie your own shoes

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner

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