Hooks for 1/4" pegboard

Hello all,
I use 1/4" thick pegboard with 1/4" holes in the shop. Most of the hooks I've bought are J-style that look vaguely like this:
-- | | |
--
\___/

Problem is that when removing the tool, the hook often pulls out of
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Hold the hook with another hand when pulling the tool
i
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Uh, are your hooks 1/4 inch, -OR- 1/8th hooks for 1/8th or 1/4 inch pegboard? I foolishly got the 1/8th hooks at Menards and find the damn things pull out almost every time that I take a wrench off them.
Terry wrote:

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Sell the pegboard and hooks to some other sucker, buy plywood, and use wood screws and wooden blocks or screwed-on metal hooks (which you could bend up with a bending fork, at the risk of being on-topic). Pegboard, at least for me, was a phase that I grew out of, and would have benefitted from never passing through...
Buy more plastic clips. Buy some spring wire and bend up (warning, more on-topic content) metal spring clips to engage two holes as the plastic ones do.
Buy hooks that don't pull out (but of course you already have hooks):
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=&pP353&cat=1,43326,43327
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

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This is an idea I learned at an art gallery. They used pegboard mounted over plywood. They drove nails thru the holes into the plywood to hand paintings, and when they pulled the nails, nothing showed but the holes in the pegboard.
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Terry wrote:

Little dab of hot melt glue....
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wrote:

I bend my own hooks from wire coat hangers, since the commercial hooks have these so obvious deficiencies.
The top of the hook is formed in the standard pattern to fit in the hole, then the vertical downward leg. The horizontal leg is bent out just above the next hole below it, and the upward retainer can be what the tool/component needs, then double back to the board and through the hole. Snip to length. Then form a small latching bump on this lower through-the-board leg to hold it in place.
After a few tries it is simple and fast to "roll your own", and the hooks will meet your needs exactly. Some hooks I made even held a Weller soldering gun in a handy position.
The key to success here is the retaining bump on the lower horizontal leg that keeps the hook from being pulled from the board too easily.
Heck, with a small test board you can make hooks in front of the tube during commercials..... "Martha, where's all them clothes hangers from beside my easy chair"?
Wolfgang
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There are plastic clip kits available that hold the pegboard hook against the pegboard.
I've seen kits at HD......
OR.....
If I have access to the back of the pegboard, I sometimes use safety wire.......
I have set up spare parts boards for the race car by safety wiring components onto a pegboard. Car comes in needing a new right front corner, and the crew can simply go to the appropriate pegboard with a pair of wire cutters, and clip off the needed components.
Wish I could take credit, but it's NOT a new idea in racing at all.
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* wrote:

Just curious, what kind of race car do you have and where do you run? I used to run, until about three years ago, dirt track mini-stock (Pinto) here at Victorville, CA. Enjoyed the hell out of it but it became just too expensive and time consuming. Two weeks of work, and then some, for thrity minutes of driving time.
Jim
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Nice hijack, Jim. :-(
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Grant Erwin wrote:

Sorry, but it's not like these threads stay on topic forever. Hell, most of them aren't even ON topic. This question could have been answered is one or two posts.
Jim
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I don't have a race car of my own.....I build them for other people.
I also have a shock dyno and work with several teams on their shocks.
Most of my stuff is running in the Canadian Maritimnes.
All asphalt, oval track stuff.
Mostly based on the 108" GM Metric chassis, but I also have a few Pro-Stock (Super Late model to some) customers.
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* wrote:

Thanks,
Jim
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Terry wrote:

a couple pieces of safety wire, machinists wire, around the hook through small drilled holes through the pegboard on each side of the hook.
John
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As others have opined, pegboards suck and I wouldn't recommend them. But given you have one (I do too, actually), try a small piece of double sided tape between the hook and board. Foam style tape, about 1/8" thick, should do nicely.
I think I'll go try that on mine, Bob
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| Hello all, | | I use 1/4" thick pegboard with 1/4" holes in the shop. Most of the | hooks I've bought are J-style that look vaguely like this: | | -- | | | | | | | --| | \___/ | | Problem is that when removing the tool, the hook often pulls out of | the board. Anyone have a simple means of keeping the hook from | pulling out? I could use a drop of Super glue but when I move hooks | around (which I do, as I rearrange the shop) I'd have to rip 'em out. | | Some of the hooks have plastic thingies that go across the hook and | clip into a hole on either side. Works, but I haven't got enough of | em. | | Suggestions appreciated. | | Best -- Terry
Try to fashion some type of plastic or semi-hard foamy material to wedge around that part of the hook where it is attached into the peg board to make it tight and not slide out easily.
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Terry wrote:

Try painting your pegboard. A couple of coats of flat white will fill in the holes some and tighten up the holding power. Also brightens up the shop and the tools tend to stand out. Most helpful when everything is blending into the background.
Good luck
Jim Vrzal Holiday,Fl.
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Take pliers and an old coat hanger and wire cutters
the ones that like pulling out make a CROSS wireonr peg down from where they are being held
\______/ that is 3 pegs wide the ends will go in holes 1 and 3 and hole 2 is where the hook is
In general i havent had issus with pegs pulling out because what i hang is proportional
old store merchandise pegs 3 side by side get stuff like my jogsaw in its platic case and i'll only hang tiny stuff ona J hook
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I use my glue gun. Easy to remove the glue when I need to but does the job...
--
Strube
Professional Firefighter, amateur everything else I try to do...
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