Horizontal mill question

The machine is a B&S 000 horizontal mill. The cutters I have all have keyways. The one arbor I have (which appears to be factory made) has no keyway. None of the spacers I have, at least some of which are factory made, have keyways. Thus all that keeps the cutter from slipping is side pressure of the spacers from the end nut. This is not enough to hold.(2"X 1/8" slitting saw, 7/8" arbor) The 4' diameter cutters I have will surely spin. Should there be plate washers larger than the spacers on either side of the cutter like on a table saw blade? or should everything be keyed. As I say the arbor isn't keyed and come to think of it, another arbor that came with the machine but won't fit isn't keyed either.

Should the tool rotation be in the direction to tighten the end nut? That might help, but it limits the versatility of the machine. Any basic set up advice is welcome.


Reply to
John Hall
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Interesting. Most of my arbors (for a Nichols mill with a 40 taper spindle) have keys, along with the spacers.

Yes -- I should think so -- if you can *mount* them. Where did you find any four *foot* diameter cutters? (Or did you mean to say "four inch" diameter?)

It depends on the workpiece material in my mind. I would probably do brass with an unkeyed 2"x1/8" cutter on a 7/8" arbor. For

4" I would suggest a 1" arbor (or larger) instead. (What is the spindle taper on this machine? Can it *drive* a 1" arbor or larger?)

If both of your arbors are 7/8", it may simply be that they were intended for light duty (e.g. 1/32" slitting saws or 1/8" in brass.) I have one keyless arbor, with four 1/32" slitting saws to put screwdriver slots in the heads of some brass screws. For anything heavier duty, I would use one of my keyed arbors.

The very factor that your slitting saw comes with keys suggests that the maker intended to have keys used with it.

If the rotation is such as to *loosen* the nut, I would *insist* on keys. I would first look for a 1" arbor with keys, and matching spacers. Mount on that a milling cutter the proper width to cut the needed keyway for a 7/8" arbor. (1" uses 1/4" keyways, IIRC. I'm not sure what the 7/8" uses -- measure your slitting saw to determine.

Once you have the keyway cut on your 7/8" arbor, then go to the arbor press with an appropriate keyway broach and your spacers, and cut keyways in those, too. (If you have one too long to cut with your broach set, use that purely for a spacer, and use a shorter key in the working area of the arbor.

Good Luck, DoN.

BTW Are you cleaning any oil off of the spacers and the saw before mounting it? That might make a bit of a difference for the smaller saws, at least.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Its a B&S #9 arbor. My 4 _inch_ cutters have one inch bores and I intend to make a new arbor for them. I can run a key way in it. I'll have to scare up a shop to broach a pair of spacers.

Reply to
John Hall

I assume you meant 4 inches rather than 4 feet.

I don't see the problem. I have a 1" arbor on my #4 Burke horizontal mill. I routinely use sltting saws and all kinds of cutters, some up to 6" in diameter and as much as 3" wide. Never have a slipping problem. Don't use washer plates as you suggest. The spacers, which are 1.5 and 1.625 " in diameter, giving a 1/4 and a 5/16 inch holding surface. Quite adequate. No slip. However, do not use ordinary washers. Use hardened milling machine arbor spacers. Also be sure to check the edges for nicks and stone those off if there are any. You should have no holding problem.

Doesn't make a difference on my mill. I use either way.


Reply to
Boris Beizer

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