how to make deep drilling tool?

Gun drill! Grind from 40 mm tool steel. Harden the tip and draw the body to spring temper. Bugs

Bugs sez, cryptically, "> Gun drill!

Cute, Bugs! Did you dream that one up yourself or read it somewhere - errr that is, read a small portion of it.

Bob Swinney

What are you drilling? That needs to be known before the correct drill can be described. ERS

A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and machined to a cannon that is 1 metre long.

"Eric R Snow" skrev i melding news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Its called a gun drill. I have one for sale.

$4000 or best offer.

Though I think shipping to Norway may be expensive.

What material are you trying to drill? Wood is fairly easy to do..metal is much harder.

Gunner

Rule #35 "That which does not kill you, has made a huge tactical error"

How's your metallurgy? You could kill yourself spectacularly if you're not being very careful with this one.

I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

And the wall of the barrel will be at least 40mm thick, maybe a little overkill but better safe than sorry....

"Dave H> > A cannon bore. It is a pice of a big axle that is going to be drilled and

I'm glad to hear that.

I have a catalog of castings for cannon barrels, they are very expensive and heavy and in the USA, but maybe there is an online source that you could look at to get confirmation that your design is good?

If you want, I can get the name of that catalog tonight. Reproduction US Civil War stuff mainly, but also historical designs going back a few centuries. What type of cannon are you building? Also, I'm curious - is this a restricted item in Norway? I've got a friend (fourth-cousin actually) with an _amazing_ collection but I have the feeling he is very licensed and regulated.

Dave Hinz

You might also hurt yourself trying to drill an axel . . .

Um, Bob, he's Norwegian. How's your Nynorsk?

You GO!!!

My former father in law had a couple of cannons made from simple pipe. probably not the safest but they worked well to produce the bang and smoke people liked to see.

Anyway, cannonballs are the problem: Yes, you can shoot just packed powder but making something go (he lived a mile from the nearest neighbor) is more fun. He used oranges. What didn't tear apart on the explosion was wet and soft enough that it wouldn't have any change of starting grass fires if you couldn't see where it went. Looked a little silly, though, shopping for oranges with a gauge to make sure they were proper bore size.

Koz

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 16:08:02 -0000, "Håken" wrote: I think your best bet is to have it gundrilled. The machines to do this type of drilling will be able to do the job fairly fast and so it would not be that expensive. If you can't find a local shop to do it then I think your best bet might be to look for plans for a home made gun barrel drilling machine. You have two problems to deal with. First, the axle material is probably pretty tough and so drilling a large diameter hole would be very slow. Second, the hole is so long that runout is a problem. You don't want the drill to come out the side of the cannon. ERS

I remember Lindsay Books had an old book about machining gun bores with WW1 vintage equipment. I'm sure it would be way slow but might be worth investigating

Karl

I have a feeling that sutch things are in the grey sone, and legal if they dont fire any projectile.

I am building an 1800 centory's design, something wery similar to the so called 3 inch rifles. The rifling is ommidet because it is wery hard too make.

And it is not possible to find old 40mm gun barrels in Norway....

"Dave H> > I am well aware of the dangers around blackpowder...

Get a spade drill and mount it to a 1 inch shaft .The shaft will be smaller than the blade to let the chips clear.

Out of topic,

n 1935, Thunes Mekaniske Verksted in Hamar, Norway, built three prototypes of what was later known to be the "Dovregubbe", the "Dovre Giant", a

*tremendous* 1'D2'h4v with 2,600hp in spite of only 15.5t of axle load and the official classification 49a (the two first prototypes with loco number 463 and 464) and 49b (the third prototype with loco number 465).

There also exists an interesting booklet with lots of nice pictures. The text is in norvegian, however, so you would have to be able to talk one of the scandinavian languages to be able to read it.

Two similar Dovregubber (later classified 49c and having loco numbers 470 and 471) have been built by Friedrich Krupp in Essen, Germany.

The Krupp-Dovregubbe was tested in Germany before it was delivered to NSB. The tests were done on express trains from Berlin to Wroclaw, Poland, formerly Breslau. The engines were used on trains which normally were 01^10 hold and performed extremely well. They actually got the trains faster by more than 20min from Berlin to Breslau or v.v. than the 01, in spite of the fact that the Dovregubbe's speed limit was 100km/h. The reason for that is that it "accelerated like a race-horse" (says the report of the testing crew of Krupp engineers and DR drivers and conductors).

"tim" skrev i meld> anyone got some information on how to make deep drilling tool?

Get a spade drill and mount it to a 1 inch shaft .The shaft will be smaller than the blade to let the chips clear.

Sounds like you need to drill and then bore the final. Drilling is roughing it out. Martin

Once it's made I suggest proof testing it from behind something big enough to stop it. The Dixie Gunworks catalog used to suggest double load of powder and 2 balls for black powder guns. I don't know if it's the correct procedure for cannons or even black powder guns nowadays. I never had one blow and since I tested my guns I didn't have a fear of having a breech plug sticking out of my forehead. Of course this fear might have had something to do with making pipe cannons as a kid and seeing the pipe cap flying backwards for a good distance. Being a bright kid I had decided the safest place during firing was 45 degrees behind and to the side of the cannon. Don't know if that's actually the safest place but kept me safe when I needed it to. Karl