Hydraulic problem followup

Jun 29, 2014 37 Replies

Casite Motor Honey and C3

I don't believe that for a minute. STP mixes totally with the oil and does NOT separate out, because it ISan oil product. My mini used the same "rag" filter.

Same thing happened on my brothers 65 Valiant slant six engine. Took the crank out of it.

Fortunately the pump is located in front and just below the radiator. So it is very accessible. If I had to split the tractor I would probably not fix the pump. Eric

This machine stores the oil in the frame. The oil is returned to the pump through the frame arms where they extend to the front of the tractor. There is no screen in the pickups that I can discern. There is a pipe welded into the end of each frame arm. Then there is a tee fitting connected to these pipes with rubber hoses and the bottom of the tee is connected to the pump inlet pipe with another length of rubber hose. The oil from the cylinders is introduced into the frame at the lowest point which is 20 inches lower and 60 inches lengthwise from the pipes which feed the pump. Eric

The drain plugs are 1/2 pipe thread. There is no mention in the user manual about filters in this location. But when I drain the oil I'll find out. Thanks, Eric

Forgot what tractor you were working on - the CK -. If the front seal starts to leak it's only , at best, a six hour job (more likely

4) - unlike the typical AG loader tractor hydraulics buried in the bowels of the machine, and a 2 or 3 day job.

Rather effective oil cooler too.

The screen could be attached to the inside of what looks like a reducing bushing.

-jsw

How is a "rebuild" different from replacing worn parts?

That never happens unless you've fried your clutches or bands. A/Ts stay damned clean until they start falling apart. That usually happens very quickly and they need to be completely overhauled.

remanufactured, ...

When I "rebuild things" instead of simply tossing worn parts, typically I'll remove material from one of the mating parts and I'll replace the other, either by manufacturing completely new one or (when available and cost-effective), or by buying a new one that is already furnished with additional material like for instance an oversized piston.

Occasionally, things can also be flame sprayed and then reground but hopefully you get the picture.

It happens when the trans cooler heat exchanger has a blow out and mixes coolant in with your ATF. It seems the paint on the trans pan doesn't like coolant and looses it's bond to the metal. Looks normal when you drop the pan, but when the fluid starts flowing the whole sheet of paint lifts up and lands on the inlet screen.

Huh? Since when have they painted tranny pans?!?

Audi did in the early '90s timeframe.

How long did it take them to learn their lesson?

No idea, we just removed the failed paint and slapped it back together.

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