Hydraulic Pump Arimitsu Britt

I got a Hydraulic Pump today. Piston type. 3 pistons. Belt driven by

1.5HP Lesson Electric Motor.

Manufacturer seems to be Arimitsu Ltd for Britt Tech Corporation. Model 15. But no plausable information on either eBay or Google.

Anybody have any further information?

Thanks in advance. Bob AZ

Reply to
Bob AZ
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"wstiefer" recommended in news:HIwGj.5183$qT6.2325 @nlpi070.nbdc.sbc.com:

Yeppers, looks to be a pressure washer pump, not a hydraulic pump.


Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

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Quite useful item, just not for what you were originally planning. Get a high-pressure hose and wand, and you can make some high-pressure water and turn tough cleaning jobs into easy blasting jobs.

It's a little big to be called "portable", but you can put casters on it or bolt it to a standard pallet, so it is easily movable.

Use the suction fitting (little vinyl hose) to add soap to the output. Some pumps have a minimum flow rating for internal cooling, if it doesn't have a relief valve you may need to add one.

Be sure to check the spec sheets for the temp limits before trying this, but some pumps can take hot water input from a water heater, and when the pump adds some more energy the output is darned near steam.


Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman


Thanks for the nice additional information. The reason I thought it was a hydraulic/oil pump is because the whole thing is an oily mess.

Today I looked things over some more and have to agree it is not for oil but as you indicate for high pressure washing among other things. I have not found the pump on the arimitsu site and there does not seem to be a britt site. The whole thing is mounted in/on a cart that looks like a small wheelbarrow. A swivel wheel in front and two larger wheels in the rear. Also has some sort of a pressure regulator and a pressure switch in the motor control circuit. I took all the wiring out and will clean everything up before putting it back together. Most of the wiring has rotted wiring.

Tomorrow I hope to take it to a car wash where I can hose it down and clean it up. I am almost afraid to touch it. I did remove the motor,

1=EF=BF=BD HP Lesson Motor. If it all works I will probably sell it on Ebay.=

If I don't get enough money for it I will keep it for the motor. I can use a bigger motor for my mill.

Take care Bob AZ

Reply to
Bob AZ

Pressure switches on a "stationary" washer like that can be a problem - I had a Car Wash that had a unit like that at the front of the wash line to do tires, and it had a manual control - when they had no cars, the workers would shut it off, IF they didn't see cars in line at the vacuums that would be there in a few minutes.

The car wash owner didn't care about cars that would be there in 3 minutes, he wanted it to be on a timer or a pressure switch and shut off every possible second it wasn't in use to "Save Electricity". (Cheap bastards in that industry won't pay the help minimum wage, but they want to shave a few pennies off the power bill...)

I refused to install a pressure switch unless it could be done right

- with a pressure switch with a large dead-band AND a high pressure bladder accumulator to make up for leaky hoses - take fifteen minutes or more for small leaks to bleed back down to the "Start" setting, AND a dwell timer so the guns had to be closed (max pressure, on the relief valve) for a certain length of time to trip shutdown, AND a minimum run time timer so they still couldn't short-cycle the motor once it tripped on. Belt, Suspenders and a rope.

Because if I didn't do it the right way they'd be torching and buying new 5 HP motors monthly, and moaning at me about the costs.

Whenever you start a high-start-torque motor on a compressor or pump it should run for 3 minutes bare minimum before shutdown, 10 minutes is a lot better. Keeps them cool which makes them happy, and a happy electric motor is a long life electric motor.

And you NEVER allow multiple short cycles in a row because of bad controls design. You send locked-rotor current through the motor for a second (then it ramps down) and that generates a big slug of heat deep down inside the motor windings on every start - it takes a while running for them to cool back down to normal.

Unless you put a continuous cooling fan on the motor (and with a TEFC 'washdown duty' motor you can't because there's no internal airflow when it is not running) constant short cycling will spot-burn the windings and kill any motor fast.


Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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