You don't get it . She expects me to KNOW that she wants something . It wouldn't be fair if she actually said something ... like "Hey , ya wanna go to town and get a burger and then hit some of the tourist trap shops on main?" "We've enjoyed 25 years of wedded bilss . "
What model tractor? Which style deck?
JD like many other companies made different decks to fit the same tractors. On my Cub Cadet for instance there is a nice height adjuster on it, but with a commercial terrain following deck you don't use it. You set the height of the deck with the wheels. The deck rides the wheels while it cuts.
The 1/4" lower in front is to cut down on any drag, the front tip should be the only part of the blade that cuts the grass.
It's a JD model 317 of 1982 vintage - one of the last ones before they changed to the pressure lubed motor . The deck is a 46" three blade with hydraulic lift . This unit has a height control on the floor in front of the seat , and now I'm confused again . Which do I use to set cut height ? Does it matter what kind of terrain I'm cutting ? Set it with the knob , and let the wheels raise the deck as necessary to prevent scalping ?
Adjust the wheels??
Because it gets in the way of THEIR agenda!!!
I'm not familiar with that model Deere. But on my Poulan Pro the knob sets the cutting height. It works like a stop setting. I can pull the lift lever back and raise the deck all the way up, but when you release the lift lever and lower the deck it stops at where the knob is set. Maybe your 317 works like that too. I also have a little numbered marker on the opposite side of the lift lever on the pivot. That is suppose to help with setting it to so many inches. It isn't very accurate. I just measured the blade height with a ruler and tried for around 3.5 inches. I'm sure it is set lower right now, probably more like 2.5 to 3 inches as I've tweaked it off and on.
The wheels on my unit are simply there to keep from scalping stuff when negotiating uneven terrain. Which my yard has quite a bit of...
Check this out:
Will take me a day or two but I can try putting the Operator and Mower deck images all into one pdf file for you if it would help.
I doubt it, but I've met plenty who are like that. :)
It didn't look like they had any adjustment there. Wheels are for anti-scalping, anyway.
My Murray deck has slotted area on the back bracketsand wingnuts for setting overall height range and leveling. I cut a couple pieces of tubasix the height I liked, rolled the mower onto the driveway, and set them under the deck, then loosened/tightened those adjuster nuts. Bingo, instant set! Those blocks live in the pump house, so they don't get lost. The front mount pair is sort of a floating bracket which hangs from the mower frame. I think the rear adjusters move the deck a bit front to back, then allow it to hang flat and self-level, for the most part. It seems to work pretty well.
Yabbut, that didn't get her off his back, now did it?
Which is why women should come with instructions...
I've enjoyed 61 years of unwedded bliss so far, and I'm the happiest when listening to these stories y'all tell, knowwhatImean,Vern?
How do you know? Were you there, peeking in the window? ;-)
_Drag_, at 4mph?
Is Steve talking about canting the spindle in the deck?
As I was saying about my Murray, the slots are 3.5" long and I can set the range that the lever height adjustment works (1-6). With your hydraulic lift (expensive toy), any adjustment will be for the set height and the hydraulics will work for adjusting the range up and down from that base height.
Which they (and we) _also_ do not understand.
The second one was what I've been looking for , it's now bookmarked - I already had the first one . Thank you !
Yeah, drag of the blade on the grass. If the front is higher, it'll still do most of the cutting, but the rest of the blade will gradually try to reduce the height that last little bit, increasing the load and giving a raggedy beat up cut.
Actually in this case it's only 1/8" - according to the directions specific to this deck . My thanks to Leon Fisk for finding and posting the link to the model 48 setup and user manual . I learned how it's supposed to be set up , and how to accomplish the proper alignment . As others have said , the wheels aren't supposed to touch during normal operation . I didn't know that - and apparently neither did the last guy that ran this deck . I also found out that the throttle is supposed to be ran wide open during cutting operations , which kinda makes sense . Higher blade speed should give a cleaner cut . New bearings for the 2 outboard spindles are on order , there was detectable play in them . Center spindle bearings were tight and smooth , apparently have been replaced already . That should clear up the slight vibration . I have a feeling that now my wife is going to want a "lawn" ... she thinks the area I was using for testing looks much better than when I use the weedeater .
With my special spidey sense (bachelorhood), I can track the poor married guys' conditions and know how this inevitably plays out. I've also heard the lamentations on it almost daily for decade upon decade, y'know? But, nooooo, you guys keep chasing them until they catch you. Sest lavvy.
Do you hear that tee-tiny violin playing in the background?
Dassa very interesting tractor. Increase tread width? Front and rear draft adjustments? Triple hydraulic controls? At 5psi, I'll bet it gives a soft ride. Do you have the belt cover, and are you going to use it?
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