It works!!

Dec 01, 2009 11 Replies

I am not finished but last night I just could not wait anymore so I striped some insulation off the wires and hooked it up to each panel and fliped the breaker. My lights inside and out side came on in the detached garage! I assume that this is a good sign that everything is ok with my wire pull?



One thing I notices is I had identified each wire on one end but not the other. This may sound stupid, but I attached a 12 volt 2 amp car battery charger on one end and went to the other unlabeled end with a volt meter. I found each wire but my meter only said about 8 volts. Also, on the other wires that were not connected to my charger my volt meter fluctuated between 0 and .01 volts. Is that normal?



I first tried testign with a lan tester or whatever it is called. You put a sendor on one end and take a proble and touch the wire on the other end. The problem with this is all the wires made it beep. If the ones not attached to the transmitter. What would cause that?


stryped fired this volley in news:fab5df1f-5aef- snipped-for-privacy@j14g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

One would hope that next time you'll think about that.

That would be about the average DC value of the unfiltered, full-wave rectified waveform. (a bit low, but in the realm...)

High input-resistance meter, antenna effect on the open leads... yeah, normal.

Crosstalk coupled (hah!) with a complete misunderstanding of how to use the toner set.

LLoyd

I followed the directions. How was I supposed to use it?

stryped fired this volley in news:cc806346-d479-42cd- snipped-for-privacy@f16g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

On twisted pairs, Stryper; on twisted pairs.

Lacking that, you could try loading the pair at the remote end. But, then, you didn't know which pair to load, did you?

Labeling is SO easy, you should get in the mindset of labeling everything, even if only with a Sharpie and a couple of cryptic letters.

LLoyd

"stryped" wrote

Heated my container up Friday. When the lights come on, it's almost orgasmic, isn't it?

Steve

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I did label both ends with colored tape. But, after workign all day on my hands and knees pulling wire, I cur the excess wire off at one panel, not thinking about the tape on the end of the wire. So, it was a dumb mistake on my part.

Couldn't you use your meter to compare the DC polarity of the voltage at the charger to the DC voltage polarity you measure at the unlabled ends to sort out which wire of a given pair is which?

You guys need to get out more often! ;-) Greg

That is what an ohm meter is for. You are not the first to have a brain fart.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Figured out today that I've spent 20 dollars in the last 34 days heating my machine room. Some of that is from elevating the heat to dry the mud.

I'd never earn a living as a drywall guy.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

When your man cave has all the appointments, life doesn't get much better.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

And the meter should read about the same at the charger end of the lines as well. So yes, it is normal. If you want the full voltage, add an electrolytic capacitor (perhaps 100 uF 25VDC) across the charger's leads. You will probably get something above the nominal

12VDC -- probably 14-15 VDC at a guess.

Yep!

Yes -- tie the other wires to ground and that should remove most of the crosstalk.

Enjoy, DoN.

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