jeweler's question: any on this NG?

GE:

On the el cheapo line, you can put in a smaller insert. The slick way is to cut the ring, recurve it on a mandrel to the right size, fit the sawed ends for a tight butt joint and silver solder it. The result can be imperceptible. But, in your place, I would ask on rec.crafts.jewelry where there are some friendly and very informed folk who know more and would have price concepts.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

For ring size R, the ID in inches is 0.032 * R + 0.458, so you can use your calipers next time to measure something that fits well.

Eat more, excercize less, drink beer!

Not a job for a novice.Should be done by a pro, but you're unlikely to find one that will do it for a silver ring .. probably cost several time what the ring is worth. The only reason to do it is that it is an heirloom piece with great sentimental value.

1. cut the shank at the back (opposite the stone) with a Jeweler's saw. Two cuts needed as far apart as needed to reduce he requisite size. Say

1. Clean up the cuts so that the two faces match perfectly.
2. Bind the ring together using soft iron wire, so that the two pieces match tight-- because when you solder it, the silver expansion will cause the gap to spread.
3. Solder the joint. This is the tricky part because silver issuch a good heat conductor that you have to that the whole ting red-hot to get the solder to flow. This is where the expertise comes in.
4. Clean up the joint, inside and out and resize up to the correct size.

As a simpler and easier alternative, buy a ring "guard." a simple strip of metal with tabs at the end that fits inside the shank. It is not visible to the casual observer. This is the way to go because (for most women) after age 40 or so the ring will most likely have to be enlarged in order to fit over her knuckles Procrastination pays.

This is much easier to do with gold, and even easier for platinum.

Boris

What Boris says is correct, with a couple of caveats.

First, silver soldering in the jewelery industry is now called silver brazing by the welding industry (they have to change the name of everything every few years). The principal solders used are called easy, medium and hard. They have a silver content from 65%-75% and a flow point between 1325f and 1450f. That's only 200-300 less than the melting point of sterling.

Second, if there are any stones more heat sensitive than diamond or sapphire they should be removed. If there is sufficient heat break between the shank and the stones, you can isolate with wet sand and work hard and fast. But this demands a fair amount of skill and I would not suggest this for a first timer.

Third, one size in american sizes translates to 2.5mm or .10 in of the circumference measured at the interior of the shank. It is typical to cut it to a slightly smaller size and stretch it back up on a tapered mandrel. this also rerounds the shank.

Paul K. Dickman