Joining Aluminum without a TIG

It's gotta look cool _and_ work. Beauty comes from functionality: if it works, it is, by definition, beautiful. If it works _and_ it's well made it's beautifuller. If it doesn't work worth a damn then all the artsy-fartsy critics in the world can rave over it, but it's still an ugly piece of @#$%.

Reply to
Tim Wescott
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That's a good point. I don't know either but it would be easy and quick to test. Art

Reply to
Artemus

The zinc type alubraze rods work pretty good - I've used "3.4.1 ideal rod" from amrelle Sales in Whitby Ontario to make canoe racks, bicycle racks tor the back of my camper trailer and a bunch of other stuff and have never had a joint failure.

Reply to
clare

That makes sense. The strength welding will get you probably isn't needed in your application. You might want to check on the max temp. your assembly will see and compare that to the soldering or brazing process you are using.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Having burnt myself numerous times on glow engines I can attest that they often get to 'Ouch', but rarely do they get to '@#$%ing Ouch'. Mufflers will go up to 'shiny spot'.

This is silver solder, which if I'm not mistaken melts way up there around 'browned spot' if not 'burnt black'. So I think I'm OK.

At any rate, we'll test it when we get it on the engine :-).

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Melt temp on the 3.4.1 Ideal rod is 715 to 735 F

Reply to
clare

I wholeheartedly agree.

-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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