Knock-off Block design

I made a knock-off block for my son to use in removing the sprokets from an ATV that he has. the threaded shaft is 5/8-18. The block I made is from 1 1/8" AF hex stock, internally threaded to match. It works---- but, he wants me to redesign it so the shaft bottoms out in the threaded block. I don't think that's a good idea for a couple of reasons:

  1. Even with a bottoming tap, we can't get complete threads all the way to the bottom of the hole
  2. I would be worried that the threaded shaft could become slightly mushroomed at the bottom and then stick there.

What do you guys think?

Pete Stanaitis

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Reply to
spaco
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Can you thread through and then install some sort of "soft" plug, e.g brass or nylon? Plug could be removed to release jammed shaft.

Why does your son think a stop is necessary or desirable?

-- Unka George (George McDuffee) .............................. The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there. L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author. The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).

Reply to
F. George McDuffee

I made a cap like that to remove collets on my mill without pounding on the bearings. It's threaded like a pipe cap and tapped in the center for a brass bolt with the head inside. I coned the head so it only contacts in the center and doesn't screw the loosened drawbar back into the collet.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

I have this exact tool in my box. It was made a very long time ago and has been hammered on a lot! It is threaded 5/8-18 and the threads at the bottom of the hole have been counterbored so that the stud of interest will bottom out on the tool. The store bought slide hammer of mine uses this same feature. It is intended for pulling mainly but I made an adapter to drive pin punches too. Works a treat! Blows are exactly where you intend to hit. HTH, Phil

Reply to
Phil Kangas

Most threaded ends (rolled thread) aren't fully-formed at the tip anyhow, and wouldn't likely gall even with only a plug tap. If it's a real bother, you could thread clear through, and put a setscrew (or two, including a backer) from the other end as a stop. Heck, you can probably use a threaded coupler and setscrews from the local BORG.

It's unlikely, IMHO, that you could form a rivet in this fashion (by pounding a threaded rod into a threaded hole and mushrooming the far end).

Reply to
whit3rd

I have several of these for older cars. Didn't even know what they were until a hot rodder friend told me. On all of them, the threads are relieved at the bottom by a groove cut all the way around. Given how often they were used back in the day, I don't think you have to worry about mushrooming the end of the axle so long as you have a decent chamfer at the end of the thread.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Anderson

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