Has anyone tried to take a lathe bed for regrinding? What was the procedure , what did you have to take off and how much does it cost. Just checxking things out in case if the lathe turns out to be worn. I think that it would be easier to do if it still was on trailer.
Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
How much more, to put it back together with all the parts in alignment?
The guys in Edmonton AB, that I spoke to that were worth talking to (skills-wise) were quoting nearly the price of a new machine. The guys that quoted reasonable prices, I would not let work on my lawnmower.
That price is not bad.
I still think it a waste of money and time, on that machine, though.
A guy wrote an article in HSM a year or two ago about sending a used South Bend heavy 10 (I think) back to South Bend for a complete rebuild. Apparently South Bend develops an estimate. In this guy's case, the estimate was about $10,000 for the complete job.
I bought a used Atlas 10F lathe 25 years ago that was all in pieces, having just had the ways reground. They had done a great job on it. I assembled and adjusted it and have been using it ever since. I paid $125 for the whole lathe with a lot of accessories.
Just having the lathe on the trailer won't help much as far as grinding the lathe bed goes, since you'll have tear the machine completely down to get it ready for the grinder.
That price is if you bring the ways to the grinder, and pick them up.
Disassembly reassembly is on your dime
Gunner
Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Then you have to get all the rest of the lathe back into line and accurate.
The biggie is getting the carriage to run so that it does not bind on the lead screw. Most rebuilders now are using Moglice or similar to build the carriage back up so it rides in the same plane.
Then you have to retrue the cross slide, so it is running accurately and within spec. Then the compound dovetail need to be rebuilt.
DAGS for "in modest praise of klunkers" by Meridian Machine
Best advice. Don't f*ck with it, until you can quantify the issues.
Set it up. Use it. Make test pieces. See how much wear there actually is, before you do anything to it.
To do otherwise, you might just as well be using an angle grinder to clean the ways. Or a cutting torch.
9x20 yahoo group has an excellent article on spindle testing and aligning, BTW. It is in the files section . Misaligned spindles can lead to taper too - before you take an Oxy torch to your recent acquisition :)
That is the problem. Seems like something moglice is made for.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
A fair amount of bed wear does not have the same amount of inaccuracy in turning diameters.
Look at a circle, tool at 270 degrees assuming 0 is at north and plot vertical vs horizontal displacement.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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