Interesting. My experience comes from tinkering with lawnmower engines over
25 yrs ago. I don't remember ever seeing anything other than a cast iron flywheel on any of them. Perhaps that is why I could start them OK back then. Beats me.
Interesting. My experience comes from tinkering with lawnmower engines over
25 yrs ago. I don't remember ever seeing anything other than a cast iron flywheel on any of them. Perhaps that is why I could start them OK back then. Beats me.According to Gunner :
[ ... ]
Now *this* is a primary example why you should use the normal .sig delimiter. Without it, it reads as part of your response, and looks very much as though you are insulting the original poster.
The attribution helps -- a bit, but I keep seeing these and thinking that they are aimed at individual posters.
And no -- it won't make a bit of difference as to whether your .sig is quoted in my followups. I manually trim *all* of the .sigs and much extra quoted text when replying. The only reason your .sig appears hear is because that is what I am explicitly responding to.
Enjoy, DoN.
Damn, no snarky remarks by Tom Bergeron, either.
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I've got to say my experience with vertical shaft lawn mower engines was about that long ago and mainly with B&S engines and the odd POS Sears Tecumseh and I can't remember seeing a CI flywheel on any of them, all alloy with the magnets cast in. I had tried to start a couple without the blade and generally no joy.
This is CORRECT. Lawn mower engines have light aluminum flywheels and will NOT start without the blade attached. Garden tiller and belt driven mower engines (and go-cart engines) have heavier cast iron flywheels which will allow the engine to start and run with no load.
It is a design quirk, which like it or not, is FACT.
*** Posted via a free Usenet account fromYou have grass at you place? I'm surprised. It's so dry and dusty there...
Actually, it's flushing the grit through the filter into the air intake where it gets eaten by the engine...and fuel isn't vaporized in those little carbs very well, but if you have an air filter full of vapor and saturated with fuel, one little backfire and the excitement begins.... Ken.
I just started my cratfsman mower with tecumseh engine without the blade. Runs fine that way. Mower was free to me. owner said it wouldn't run. SEars said 150 bux to fix it. It came with no blade or hub. Got those, now can't tighten bolt enough to not come loose within 5 seconds. Is Locktite the answer?
That and a fresh lockwasher would be the next thing I'd try.
You will probably live to regret using locktite. The blade on my mower is keyed to the hub with #10 x 1/4 soft iron rivets as shear pins, the hub in turn is keyed to the shaft with a woodruff key, I ensure that the threads are clean, apply anti seize, tighten the bolt finger tight, then hold the blade and snug up the bolt. MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS DISSABLED WHEN DOING THIS or you will be like the beer drinker who decided it would be easy to use his rotary mower to rim the hedge. They call him "Stumpy" now cause he has eight of them! Gerry :-)} London, Canada
thanks guys. I'll give the lockwasher a chance then locktite as last resort.
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