lOGAN CHANGE GEAR QUESTION

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Scott Logan lives in your back yard. Very helpful guy. And, has any parts you might need.

Ok. take two gears the bronze bushing (it should have a square key) and a nut that fits the threaded end of the bushing.

Assemble these so that the gear you want on the inside faces the flanged side of the bushing. You don't need to tighten the nut too much. It just keeps the gears together.

Then, oil the long part of the steel tube and slide it into the flanged end of the bushing.

Put the tee bolt through the banjo from the headstock side.

Slide the gear assemble over the tee bolt so that all the flanges face the headstock, and nestle the projection on the steel tube into the slot.

Then put the washer and nut on the end of the teebolt that sticks out, adjust your gears for backlash and tighten them down

Paul K. Dickman

Thanks, but.... There was no nut that went over the threaded part on the brass bushing....Also, only one of the brass bushings even has a thread on it....could it be that the previous owner replaced it or something...I don't know.

Also, the brass bushing does not have a flange... I have posted three photos here:

Maybe it's just that the gears are intended to be loose on the lathe...the nut bottms out on the long metal tupe with a flange on it (i think it is called the sleeve (LA-313 I think)

Here is a photo of it all together, note the gap....

Thanks again ;-)

John,

Sorry to dash your hopes, but the parts shown in your pictures are NOT Logan parts (except maybe the gears). For reference, the gears should be 7/16" thick, 5/8" ID, and have a 5/32" keyway.

That probably explains why the manual was not much help, in this case, and also why the gears end up loose.

With the correct parts and the correct assembly, the stud should turn freely, but the gears should not be loose.

Feel free to call me Monday (815-943-9500), and we can discuss further.

John,

Sorry to dash your hopes, but the parts shown in your pictures are NOT Logan parts (except maybe the gears). For reference, the gears should be 7/16" thick, 5/8" ID, and have a 5/32" keyway.

That probably explains why the manual was not much help, in this case, and also why the gears end up loose.

With the correct parts and the correct assembly, the stud should turn freely, but the gears should not be loose.

Feel free to call me Monday (815-943-9500), and we can discuss further.

Yes, this is wrong. The flange on the bushing acts as a thrust washer between the gears and the sleave. It also serves to locate the gears away from the banjo and in the proper alignment with the other gears in the train.

In your setup the gears are free to grind against the banjo, the sleave and the other gears.

They can also separate from each other leaving an unsupported section of bushing bearing the load.

Properly tightened, the nut on the end of the tee bolt locks the cleave to the banjo making it a solid non rotating axle. The gear bushing assembly should rotate freely on this axle with a couple of thousanths side to side clearance. The side to side thrust is borne by the flange on the bushing on the headstock side and by a slight projection of the bushing on the nut end of the axle.

Like Scott, I suggest you aquire the proper parts. As a stop gap measure, you could make a couple of bronze thrust washers for each side to take the thrust, locate the gears and to take up the excess side to side clearance.

Paul K. Dickman

Thanks for all of the help Paul, Scott and Karl.

I hope to be able to help you (and others) in the days and months to come.

Cheers.

John