I am finishing a car that uses floorpans that have grooves in them
Lots of grooves, different lengths, sizes, orientations.
I want a flat(-ish) floor.
Is there stuff that comes like putty that I could fill the grooves with,
something that will cure to a slightly flexible consistency?
I'm hoping to get a can of this magic stuff, smear it in, wait for cure,
and run a bead of glue down each strip, nice flat underlay on top of
I presume you use the phrase "finishing a car" with some liberty!
If you don't know about Bondo (and/or other polyester body putty), then the
words carry somewhat less meaning than they might, otherwise.
On Sun, 29 May 2016 07:34:48 -0500, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Everybody knows about bondo.
I want something
a) more flexible and stronger so I can
b) glue it to the bottom of the underlay, whaich can then be removed for
But since I posted, have found out about and decided to test a diy sugru
recipe; could be just the thing.
The thing about finishing is it is like Zenos paradox, you never seem to
get to the end.
Make a rod of it, say 1/2" diameter and 8 inches long. Let it cure.
Now bend it with your fingers.
Polyester can be moderately flexible, but not when you load it with
calcium carbonate and other crap to make a filler, like Bondo.
On Sunday, May 29, 2016 at 2:39:42 PM UTC-4, Ed Huntress wrote:
I think Bondo wousld work. The floorboard in question is corrugated to s
tiffen it. I doubt if one could bend the floorboard. But the original po
ster wants a more flexible agent. Incidentally can you still buy Bondo wi
th Calcium Carbonate? I thought it was all loaded with glass micro-bubbles
On Sun, 29 May 2016 14:53:34 -0700, rangerssuck wrote:
It's just silicone 1 with about 10-30% cornstarch mixed in, to speed up
Which is does, but it's way too damm sticky until it does cure. It does
peel away from the foil backing on the sound-absorber stuff I put all
over the floor, so that's a good point (means the underlay could be glued
to the strips and the whole thing lifted off, assuming I don't get any
glue where I shouldn't have.
Also it looks as though I would need about 20 tubes (calking gun tubes)
of the silicone. That's a LOT of very sticky messy stuff.
So if there was a caulk that was not so messy, would NOT bond to shiny
aluminum foil, and would stay somewhat flexible, and could be glued...
There are oodles of different caulks nowadays. Go to your local home
supply store and start reading what they say on the tubes. Or better
yet just google them.
Off the top of my head you might try Polyurethane. It sets up kind of
slow but works pretty good as both glue and filler. Commonly used in
the roofing trade:
Mix up a small batch of silicone caulking and corn starch 1 to 1. It's
a pain to mix at first, so do it in tall-sided container. For a sample
batch the lid off a spray bomb will do nicely. The corn starch absorbs
moisture from the air which makes the silicone dry in minutes, firm
but flexible. Cheap and handy for many things. Haven't tried gluing it
to anything but I expect it will be Ok.
On Sun, 29 May 2016 09:00:49 -0700, Christmas Card From a Hooker in
No matter what he uses, the OP is going to have to use a release agent
of some kind. Silicone is a terrible adhesive, but even that will
stick in the grooves -- at least partly -- through some mechanical
interlocking. The texture of that may even be too fine to see with the
And no adhesive we're likely to encounter will stick to it very well,
either, so running a bead of glue and then sticking on the underlay
probably will create a mess.
As for flexibility, bondo doesn't have it. It's weak, it gets lousy
adhesion, it will crumble if you flex it much, and, to get any
adhestive to stick to it, you have to wash the top of the beads very
well with acetone. Styrene floats to the top and has to be washed off.
Sanding just spreads the styrene around, unless you used the acetone
I would try this: Get some polyvinyl alcohol release agent (PVA),
which you can get at any boating supply store, and brush at least two
layers into the gooves -- and on the flat spaces between the grooves.
Lay in a bead of "zero shrink" (if you can find it) polyurethane
adhesive. (The more expensive brands of polyurethane construction
adhesive usually are low-shrink. They'll be *slightly* flexible after
being cured.) Immediately lay the underlayment on top of it while it's
still wet. Pray a lot. Let it cure really well Then try peeling it up.
It should come up if you don't have a lot of mechanical interlock. If
you can spare a couple of days for a test, try it with a piece of
underlayment around 6 inches square, first.
I would sink cling wrap into the groove, and tape it down on both
sides. I know that will work because I sunk cling wrap into my ear,
and then kneaded in that silicone/corn starch putty. Once it set up,
it came right out. No, I did not make that up. :) I only did one ear
at a time, so that in the worst case I could extract the plug with an
easy-out connected to a slide hammer or a tow truck. :)
If the grooves are deep enough, a strip of something easily glueable
could be imbedded into the putty. Short working time, but nicely
If I were using PVA, I'd use more like ten coats. :)
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