Hmm. So the shaft passes all the way through the piston; while the piston pushes the cup.
Many of the jacks have threaded extenders; if you pull same, what is under it? Is the whole piston hollow?
The piston is hollow but you will pull the thread insert out.
On Thu, 26 Feb 2009 15:20:16 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk scrawled the following:
RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! I tried one of these and immediately took it back for my money back. The difference between diameters of the die threads and bolt threads was about 0.02, enough to wobble noticeably and never quite tighten down, let alone CUT something between the dies. I picked up a Greenlee 737 kit for the same price off eBay.
-- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=-
The piston will push; I want the tension rod to go through it and attach to the base...
You could use a dual - acting cylinder and suck the sleeve out:
As you can see, there are *many* other sizes of cylinder available from these folks.
--Winston
For some one off jobs, at the shop I used to work at the boss made shop made porta-power type cylinders. He wetted leather and made cup seals and drilled and installed a grease zerk for pressure. The hydraulic pump was a grease gun and the hydraulic fluid was grease. Some grease guns pump up to
10,000 PSI. You have to clean the grease out of it and re-assemble after every use but it made an easy specialty porta-power cylinder.RogerN
No ideas, but some of you might get a chuckle from this photo
Wayne
Sweet! I like how you used two support jacks to hold up the whole works.
I'll bet the big POP/wrenching noise the ornery ones gave when they let loose was almost as good as an orgasm. Of course, if you are old enough, it was probably even better ;-)
This thrust bearing:
Part Number: 60715K15 $18.55 Each Type Integrated Ball Bearings Integrated Ball Bearing Type Shielded For Shaft Diameter 1" Outside Diameter 1-31/32" Thickness 5/8" Dynamic Thrust Load Cap, lbs. 6,700 Maximum rpm 3,800 Bearing Material Steel Washer Material 52100 Hardened Steel Temperature Range -40° to +250° F
Provided you can make something to go on the end of a 1 inch bolt to hook the inside of the bushing.
A hose with 10,000 psi sure gets stiff, don't it?
Heck, I didn't even notice. The pins are supposed to be a slip fit, so I started out with short welds thinking I could save some time grinding them off later. On the first pin I went through the break it/reweld it process twice before finally getting the weld strong enough to handle the force. So all I was thinking about when pumping the lever was that with every stroke getting harder, it'll either pop or else I'm in for another half-hour. :-)
Wayne
I needed the bottle jack to take the load off the front axle. There was another one there earlier to hold the frame up until it was welded to the pin. It was one of those jobs where it takes a half hour just to drag all the tools back to the shop. Note wheelbarrow here
If I'd thought of it, I might have struck a hands-on-hip Superman pose. :-)
Wayne
What diameter and depth are the pins?
You can see the issue by grabbing:
Best avoid dialup.... it's a buncha pictures.
#2672 shows most of the parts. That nut is the bottom end of a bolt whose head is under the back seat.
1 [bolt] 2 --------body 3 || 4 || bushing tube surrounded by rubber 5 || 6 || 7 ru bber 8 bracket 9 [nut]456 are within the surrounding subframe tube
You can see both a new and old bushing in the final pictures.
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