LP tank valve removal

I have a 100 pound LP tank that is collecting dust.
I want to use this tank as a reservoir for compressed air.
I would like to remove the valve, and replace it with a
much lower restriction ball valve. I'm assuming the original valve
won't allow much air flow, and probably not enough for an
impact wrench
My grandfather says it is all but impossible to get those
valves out.
Are the valve threads sealed with something that has
to be heated to soften?
Is there some other secret to getting the original valve out?
Thanks,
Dave
Reply to
David A. Webb
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I've used a couple 100 lb. cylinders as compressed air reservoirs. I had no trouble removing the valve - its just 3/4" NPT thread into the tank. Strap that tank down hard so it won't turn on you and just use a pipe wrench to remove the valve. I wouldn't use heat => Boom.
Karl
Reply to
Karl Townsend
I removed valves from two 100# LP cylinders already and the biggest problem was anchoring the tank to be able to jump on the end of a cheater bar on a large crescent wrench, so I could apply a good jot and break them free. I wrapped a chaian around it, and drove my truck up on the chain until it touched the tank and also postioned a long bar through the holes in the base for additonal holding power and just jumped up and down on the cheater bar, and out they came.
I just did the same with some 20# old style cylinders as well. Visit my website:
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Reply to
Roy
I've used systems which used the tanks with the valves as they are and they presented no problems with the volume of airflow thru the valve. Where you'll usually see the problem is in the line or connections that people will put on, they try and use standard 1/4" connectors to run 3/4 or 1" impact wrenches. Don't cheap out and disappoint yourself, if you are really going to run high volume consumption tools, then get 1/2" connectors and equivalent or larger lines. Remember the best air flow you get is at the end of the smallest connection.
Reply to
nic
I used a home made wrench burned out and then ground to fit from a piece of pipe. The lower end fits over the valve and the upper end has a through hole for a bar and a cheater. As was said before, hardest part is the keep the tank from turning. I used a couple of ratcheting carge straps for the hold back.
Johm H.
Reply to
Mustmaker
I used a chain and a loadbinder. See
The "Sampson post" is bolted to the floor. The chain runs over the tank and to a fitting at the bottom of the post. The load binder puts lots of tension on the chain and friction does the rest.
Ted
Reply to
Ted Edwards

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