I believe it. I heard the trick from a coworker who was also an
experienced shady-tree mechanic from rural PA. It may depend on the
engine kind. He didn't report a high failure rate, but he would be one
to know just how far he could push it.
When the metal becomes too clean, it will weld nicely.
Hmm. If it didn't usually do any good, why did the mechanic even bother?
It's a saga on their website (?) that says that what became WD-40 was
the 40th formula they tried. One wonders what took so long.
Good question. People would bring in old engines and ask him to convert
them. Those were probably the ones that were hopeless but he'd tell them he
could "cure it or kill it" if they wanted to take a chance.
Doing those conversions was pretty good business back in the '50s.
Oh, that one. I thought they'd dressed it up recently or something.
That reminds me of a personna I once adopted as a joke, in which I claimed
to have been the inventor of WD39, but then I gave up. d8-)
Ed, it's always humorous to see the many distorted interpretations of a
I've heard that a flush with kero can help remove the remaining dirty oil
during an oil change, and seems entirely sensible. After the dirty oil is
drained, a quart-or-so of kero is poured in and runs out the drain hole.
How this would get to the point of running an engine, and driving the car
for several days is beyond comprehension.
I could possibly see how some folks might add a quart of kero, after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for a short time, in
an attempt to try to remove built-up deposits or gummy residues before an
The most reasonable one I've heard was to add a quart of Rislone after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for maybe (as much
as) a couple of hundred miles, for additional internal cleaning, prior to an
I don't do any of the above anymore.. what ever comes out when the plug is
removed is replaced with fresh oil, plus enough for the new filter.
Oh, yeah. A lot of them fly around here. Fortunately there also are a lot of
knowledgeable people here who usually catch them before they breed.
I think you really have to stir up any of that oil-and-water glop in a
poorly cared-for engine. Whether just running kero through it would do
anything is problematic.
Well, they used to do it, 'way back, and even into the '50s. But my
impression is that it's mostly an old-wive's tale that has ruined a lot of
The detergents in modern oil are so good that, if they won't do it, you're
ready for one of those internal pressure/pumping treatments at Jiffy Lube,
or even an engine tear-down and cleaning.
Modern engines won't tolerate that kind of playing around, in any case. It
was different when castings were thick and soft, and pistons were C.I.
rather than aluminum. My dad used to tell me how *his* dad would de-carbon
the head on the ol' Model A -- using an O/A torch with the head still on.
Hhmmmnnn ! Dirty oil and crap in the engine. Makes me wonder. I used to know
a guy that sold
electrically heated oil filters for cars. Seems it was an electrically heated
oil filter body, or
case, and that you inserted a roll of toilet paper for the filtering element.
Could this remove
"crap" from the oil better than a regular filter ? Is there some sort of a
"crap in the oil"
connection with the toilet paper? That idea is about as stupid as the one
discussion re. kerosene for an engine "flush". No wait a second, there may be
I can imagine it would work on really old engines if you did it regularly
and just ran the engine lightly. My guess is that the problems crop up when
you use it to try to salvage an engine that's already full of crud, and you
run it too hard or long.
On Sat, 17 Nov 2007 12:54:23 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
Having seen several pounds of sludge come off the interior of an old
engine and completely plug/foul the oil filter (which opened the pump
bypass, putting crud in the bearings) I recommend against any of the
above. I don't think the guy ever changed oil, just added when it was
low. Anyway, bearings do NOT like the crunchy gunk and get loud when
it's run past their surfaces. When we pulled the rocker covers, there
was a quarter inch of caked crap still on them, and the oil pan was
half full of solids which melted off the block. 35 years later, I
still wonder how that engine ever ran.
Use a good detergent oil (my fave is Castrol GTX) and leave whatever
crud is on the walls of the engine where they are. If you want to
remove crud, overhaul the engine.
WD-40 is not a lubricant, nor is straight STP. Use oil instead.
After all, it is those who have a deep and real inner life who
are best able to deal with the irritating details of outer life.
-- Evelyn Underhill
You are correct Ed.
On older engines it was actually "recommended" and "common practice"
to add a quart of Kero, stove oil, or diesel fuel to the crankcase and
run it for 20 minutes or so before draining the oil.
The oil was non-detergent, and in most cases the engine had no oil
filter. The oil was changed at 1000 mile intervals, and very often it
was not necessary to drain a quart before addin the kero as the oil
level was already down a quart.
Done regularly there was no deposit build-up to warry about.
In later years, another common "fix" which was less agressive was to
put Shaler Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) or Dexron transmission
fluid in the oil of a neglected engine. The dirtier the engine was,
the less you put in and the oftener you changed the oil. A pint per
change, changed every 250 miles, wouild safely clean up a pretty badly
gummed up engine within 1000 miles or so.
The only engine I ever blew this way was a 1965 225 valiant with about
100,000 miles on what was likely about 2 oil changes. The crud was
hard as diamond and we chipped away as much as we could from the
rocker area. Most likely some of that crud dropped into the pan and
likely did more to contribute to the plugging of the inlet screen 20
miles later than the addition of a quart of furnace oil to the
The engine was likely beyond salvage either way, even before we opened
it up to attempt to adjust the valve clearances.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. The instructions on several old motors I've
had kicking around specify #20 and #30 oil. The 3in1 "motor" oil in
the blue container is for motors over 1/4 HP. and is SAE #20. They
also make an oil for small electric motors. Do NOT use this on larger
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Well, if you recommend WD-40 as a lubricant you probably need to call
your doctor as WD-40 is basically kerosine which is not exactly the
correct lubricant for an electric motor.
from address for reply)
If it is a babbit bearing motor with slinger rings, you use
something like 20W or 30W oil. Probably the same with oil wick
design, although those may need to have the gummed-up oil
dissolved so the wicks can oil the bearings. You may just have
to replace the wicks with cotton shoelaces.
Most old motors use "Zoom Spout Turbine Oil". Failing that, two cycle gas
mix oil works very well, don't mix in any gasoline. Non detergent ND-30 or
ND-20 oil is also acceptable.
Motors shouldn't use detergent oil like 10W30 because the detergent attracts
moisture. WD-40 is too light, and dries up. 3 n 1 oil is worse than useless.
Typically two or one drops of oil every couple months. More often, if you
use the motor a lot.
Christopher A. Young;
"Ignoramus11967" <ignoramus11967@NOSPAM.11967.invalid> wrote in message
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