Making Tools

Any reason you couldn't just add a regular 1/2" drive u-joint to a speeder? Sears should have both. Or if you've got some problem with that, get a specialty socket with a u-joint built in. Enough bits and pieces out there that you shouldn't have to weld something up.

Stan

Three comments or thoughts.

1. How much torque should you be putting on a speed handle anyway.

1. I have a couple sockets I have welded extensions into using steel water pipe and then used on my 1/2" impact. I have not broken one yet, but I suppose its possible.

2. Does the end have to be particularly short? If not a universal on the end might fill the same bill. I have some universal with an outer spring that snaps them back to center I really like. If you are afraid of losing the universal a couple tack welds should hold it in place with minimal HAZ.

1. (Ok I can't count) You said, "or someone else." If this is a commercial work environment with other folks jacking your tools buy the Snap-On. You don't want the liability and Snap-On pays their insurance company big bucks to cover it.

Those used to come with every cheap $5.95 socket set in the old days.

Here is one but some will not sell across the border.

Perhaps a brace'n bit set with an adapter? Should be easy to cut off an old extension and grid some flats on it.

Hi all

I have a need for this sort of tool;

(a 1/2" driver 'speed handle' with a flex-head)

I could buy one from Snap-on, who seem to be the only supplier ($120!), or I could buy a regular speed handle, and a johnson bar, and cut the ends off and weld the flex head to the speed handle.

I am worried about how the steels would be affected in the HAZ. I know slow cooling would minimize the issue, but I'd hate to have the thing break while I (or someone else) was leaning on it. Any ideas about filler metal and heat treatment? I have TIG, stick, and MIG Fluxcore at my disposal.

Pete

I've made many such things over the years (1). I've always used TIG, and at various time tried 308 SS, 309 SS, 316 SS, mild steel (70S-2 or

70S-6), and inconel filler. As long as the weld is in a relatively low stress area, I've never had a failure.

Clearly you're not going to apply much torque by hand with a speed handle, so it should be just fine.

(1) I worked in boatyards for several years after graduating from college, and when we had an inaccessable fastener we'd wait 'til the Snap-On came guy around and rifled his inventory for tools we could cut up and weld back together to get the job done.

Would a Blackhawk 34947B Bent Handle Flex-Head Ratchet or a cheaper equivalent work for you?

jsw

Looks like I botched the description. Have a closer look at the link. Plain old speed drivers are a no brainer. What I need is something like the one in the link, which has a different socket attachement. I've considered the idea of a universal, but they don't really like to be used in the 90 degree position.

The typical application is this:

Apply socket to tight wheel nut or axle nut. Break nut nut free (use 'johnson bar' function) Spin nut off using 'speed bar' function. Reverse for installation.

In short, I want the leverage of a johnson bar, with the speed of the speed bar in one tool.

Pete

Those things are handy, but the nuts involved are pretty big. (22 to

36 mm), and that type of ratchet gets kinda clumsy with a big socket on it.

Pete

I am not personally convinced that it is a good idea, compared to plain old speed handles. I think that the socket on this one will wobble and get off the nut.

i

How about removing the rubber grip from a breaker bar and welding a socket onto the end? The bar won't be weakened in the critical areas and you can rapidly spin the nut with a small tee handle. Slip some loose-fitting hose over the handle and grab it with the other hand to stabilize the bar while you spin the tee.

I would turn the weld smooth and maybe round the end of the socket.

jsw

How I'd do it:

Bore end of Johnsonbar to size of speedwrench shaft. Cut speedwrench shaft just below the handle. Braze the joint.

This would be a low torque area and barze won't overheat and lose and temper. Most of torque would be the mechanical fit.

I did this to a deep socket impact. Cut it in two. brazed in a six inch pipe for a 9 inch deep socket. This takes an impact wrench force.

Just my method. YMMV.

karl

The speed handle with attachable U-joint is what I used for years. Then I inherited a set of Williams sockets with U-joints built into each socket. They're very slick, but I haven't seen them for sale lately.

I suppose that everyone has understood when note-ers used "Johnson bar" they meant "breaker bar". There is no way in hell that a Johnson bar has any applicability in this situation.

Bob

You mean a universal? Because it flexes in two directions, while the one shown only flexes in one direction, allowing you to lie the wrench down parallel to the surface through which the bolt or nut is fitted, and then you can press sideways on the wrench, using it as a breaker bar after using the speed handle to get things mostly together.

If you had a universal on the end, you would not be able to apply torque in the sideways direction.

This strikes me as a nice tool to have if you need to install and tighten a large number of fasteners -- speed handle for getting it into contact, and breaker bar for the last bit of torque application (assuming that you don't need a torque wrench to measure the torque being applied.)

Enjoy, DoN.

Do you have one of these:

-- Boris

I've been away from usenet for a bit and wanted to say thanks for all the replies. It's interesting about the term "Johnson bar". Yes I did mean breaker bar, but the guys who worked in my Dad/Grandfathers maintenance shop always called them johnson bars. Guess they had it wrong. Don hit the nail on the head with the intended uses. I should have mentioned that in 'torque' mode, the wrench will have to withstand

100+ ft.lbs, which is the main reason why I don't want to use a universal joint. (they don't do well at 90 degrees). I do believe I will try the pin and braze method when things are a little less crazy.

Pete