On that serious note..the survivalists use a similar item..oxygen absorber packets. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with commodities, drop in x number of aborbers and it sucks all the O2 into the media, preventing most molds etc etc. VERY long term storage of foods
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
Email me with your sizes and Ill check what I have. I have somewhere in the order of 3000 v belts, all new.
Gunner
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
I didn't read the links, but they're probabably just iron powder, in packets. As long as the seal is good, they'll do the job.
But molds respond to moisture - and can stay dormant as spores indefinitely.
Jim
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FWIW, I picked up a Unisaw some years ago, and had to replace the triple drive belts on it. Delta wanted some big bucks (like $60 or so? I don't exactly recall, but I know it was a large number) for their set of "matched" belts, so, I hiked myself down to a local power & drive train distributor. They had about a dozen belts of the correct size on hand, and, out of the first six I looked at, I found the three I needed. As I recall, they only cost me about $2.00 or $3.00 each, as the total bill was under $10.00. It was a LOT less than I expected, and, the belts have worked great ever since. Modern production methods have gone a LONG way towards "standardizing" lengths, and, making sure that a given belt size is exact, within a small tolerance. Good things come from technology. Regards dave Mundt
I tried a cogged belt on my Clausing mill, which has some smallish pulleys. The noise drove me nuts and I switched back to regular belts. I've been toying with trying a linked belt (I have quite a few feet of the stuff that I got cheap), but I'm concerned about the noise. The other issue with the link belts is dust. The red Fenner belts shed red dust for a while.
Doug White
According to Gates, they haven't made matched belts (except multiple banded belts) since 1980. They claim their belts are consistent enough to be mixed randomly and still exceed the old matching standard. Dodge says the same.
It's been years since I've seen a new v-belt marked with the length code that they used to carry to indicate how much a given belt deviated from the nominal length. Perhaps your dealer is going thru his inventory to find the absolute best match manually?
Ned Simmons
Vacuum packers are great for making up emergency preparedness kits (and also for backpacking). Not only can you preserve food, but they're great for storing clothing and other gear, with the added benefit that they compress the volume down. Also great for storing firearms and bricks of ammo, although I don't recommend drawing more than a light vacuum on ammo.
However, if you are using a consumer-grade vacuum packer (like "Food Saver") for preserving dry foods, then you should also add some oxygen absorber packs before vacuum packing. That will further improve the lifespan of the stored food.
Correct. I generally use Applied Industrial (King Bearing) and they will physically use a belt length gauge to find me as close a matching pair as possible.
Gunner
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
McMaster has matched belts online in the B size. I need A.
A belts do not need to be matched. B, neither.
Both meet the appropriate standards for ganging belts without matching.
So says the RMA (Rubber Manufacturer's Association).
OTOH, the common L series of belts always require matching when employed ganged.
It appears that the industry has advanced to the point where they can manufacture to a standard rather than, after the fact, measure to see what they have produced. Let's give them three cheers :-) Gerry :-)} London, Canada
I picked up a cogged V belt made by Goodyear. I was told that all belts of the same size from Goodyear are matched. Matchmaker is marked on these blets and is some form of trademark to specify these are matched.
I appreciate everyone's input on this subject. The twist lock belts seem like a good idea. People's personal experience with these was very helpful in pointing me in the right direction.
Thanks again guys....
I picked up a cogged V belt made by Goodyear. I was told that all belts of the same size from Goodyear are matched. Matchmaker is marked on these blets and is some form of trademark to specify these are matched.
A and B belts are precisely made, and may be ganged to one's heart's content.
Cogged belts are intended for use where one sheave is rather small. If the sheaves are more reasonably sized, a standard belt is fine.
I appreciate everyone's input on this subject. The twist lock belts seem like a good idea. People's personal experience with these was very helpful in pointing me in the right direction.
Two companies make this kind of interlocking belt. PowerTwist is one popular brand. It is red. The competitive belting is green.
Not actually a new idea, as interlocking belting (using a rivet and a special tool to activate same) has been available for nearly a century, and this kind is still available, too.
Just don't try PowerTwist or similar belting on a machine which you expect to produce an absolutely flawless finish, such as a toolroom lathe.
My 10" Sheldon uses a twin Vee belt drive. When I got it the belts were mis-matched and they vibrated and shook the machine. Having heard that twist lock belts tend to run more smoothly, I switched to them.
I agree, they tend to run smoothly; and, I won't have to disassemble the spindle come replacement time. About the only downside I've noticed is that they tend to slip under heavy load.
Regards,
Orrin
Slip - I understand - did you remove 1 or 2 links (depending on the total length) after they worked in ?
Remember the links are very stiff fiber material and once it forms to the pulley the length is a bit long. That might be the cause of slippage.
The belts were developed for assembly lines - multiple belts driving a single shaft.
I use them on my wood and metal lathes.
Martin
A few years ago, the belt manufactures claimed to have their belt mfg. process down well enough that the old method of individually matching belts when purchased in pairs, or multiple set was no longer required.
This is a myth. I went to a jobsite to start-up 5 identical pumps, each pump drive had 6 groove sheaves. The painters on the site had removed the belt guards and all 30 belts and piled them in the corner. It took me about 4 hours of trial and error to end up with acceptable sets for each pump.
If you hand select the belts from a power transmission, they do have a tool for measuring, you can at least hope your choice may match better than than the salesperson, who grabs the first two off the shelf.
DW
A few years ago, the belt manufactures claimed to have their belt mfg. process down well enough that the old method of individually matching belts when purchased in pairs, or multiple set was no longer required.
This is a myth.
The RMA (Rubber Manufacturers Association) states that A belts don't need matching.
My experience confirms their claims.
Now, 4L belts are a completely different story.
Not at all as difficult as you might think. I know the instructions in the manual are a bit intimidating but once you plunge in it's not bad. What it amounts to is you just have to remove the rear bearing retainer and friends and work the belts off the back end of the spindle through the gap between the spindle and the through hole in the spindle housing. The magic with the back gear bearing witness marks is straight forward when you actually do it. After doing it once when I first purchased my lathe I could probably do it again in under two hours. Biggest time issue is removing the headstock from the bed.
Dan
Dan
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