Metal Roofs

It's not quite on topic, but then what is?

When we bought this place the shop roof leaked. It's a typical pole building with a metal roof, nails with gaskets and all that wonderful stuff -- and it's old enough that it was leaking. I had a roofing place come out to fix it. They said they'd replace the nails, and they ended up putting in a new nail 2" away from each old nail and spreading goop around the old nails. Now the roof leaks again. Since they didn't do what they told me they would in the first place (and since they're damn slow) I don't particularly want to talk to them ever again, even to get them to come out and screw up the roof more badly while calling it "warranty work".

Two questions:

First:

Anybody in the Oregon City/Portland area know of a really good roofer for metal roofs? I need someone who won't do a half-assed job, and I understand that you have to pay for quality. If the only choice is to rip off the roof and do it over that's better than some cheap-ass repair that drips water on my valuable stuff.

Second:

Anybody anywhere out there have suggestions for what I should be hearing? I'd certainly like to do something short of tearing the whole thing off and starting over again, but I don't want another POS roofing job.

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Tim Wescott
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Rip it off and replace, I'd say. These roofs have a limited lifespan, and when it hits it hits. The less expensive solution is the same sort of roof (should be attached with screws, not nails). It will also be life-limited (figure 10-20 years). The more expensive solution is concealed fastener metal roofing - there's stuff that's preformed and essentially one step up from the screw-through, and then there's whole hog, should outlast you, standing seam, though fussy standing seam practioniners may not want to work over purlins, which would add a layer of plywood to what is already going to be the most expensive roof option. But it should outlast you...

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Reply to
Grant Erwin

IMHO, nails are a poor choice for attaching metal roofing down, even with spiral or ring loc nails. Exposure to sun, Expansion and contraction and swelling / drying of the wood soon makes them pop loose and they continually get worse. I would have the roofing secured with the screw type fasteners. They are easy to put in, and come in self drilling sizes with wood shank screws with a hex head and neoprene washers. The hold and don't leak. Driving a nail back into its original hole is futile at most......its inevitable its going to come abck up / out. Visit my website:

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expressed are those of my wife, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Reply to
Roy

wonderful

Got three dorms, that have been re roofed twice. Storms blasted 2-4 feet chunks off the roofs. The roofs are v shaped, flat, over raised concrete walls.

The new metal roofs look a lot stronger, bolt attachments, with locking pannels (3 feet wide). Looks like it would hold up to a hurricane.

xman

Reply to
xmRadio

right answers . Trying to save a frigged up job is throwing your money away. Get a roof system that is held down by edge clips that are totally covered by the standing seam of the next panel. The only screw through the surface would be what is called a drag screw, keeps the panel from sliding off and it is covered up by the ridge flashing when the roof is finished. Accept no substitutes !! I have that style roof on my shop and if my memory serves me, it might have a 20-25 year life.

Ed Angell

Reply to
Ed Angell

The real pisser is they told me they'd put in screws, then not only put in nails, but they put them in _next_ to the existing nails, so now there's twice as many holes in the roof. When challenged, they said "but gee, we'd have had to go buy big screws to make it fit".

Well, yes.

I'd try to get them to make it good, but I figure if they're going to screw it up that badly the first time around they'll just keep screwing it up more if I could get them back at all.

Sounds like I just need a new roof (sigh).

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Tim I have a name of a guy that is just south of Salem and he did the roof on my house with standing seam metal and I'm happy with his work, If you can't find anyone closer contact me off list and I'll pass along his name. I would also advise that if you have to replace the roof that you put an insulating vapor barrier under the metal. I have it in my shop and it is one of the good things that I did while building the shop. lg no neat sig line

Reply to
larry g

Have the roof foamed. This takes care of the leaking problem once and for all and adds a decent layer of insulation to the entire shop.

Its very popular here in California and seems to be holding up quite well.

An example

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Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem. To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized, merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

Reply to
Gunner

The metal seamed roofs are nice, but are one of the most expensive roofs available. I suggest that you get a price on the metal seamed as well as conventional metal roofs. I also favor screws vs nails. The roofs that I have seen use a rubber washer to seal the screw hole.

Actually, the asphalt shingle roofs are very durable if you use the shingles with longer waranties. I think that the fiberglass shingles cost a bit more, but last longer.

For what it is worth, in my region of the country, about 95% of the roofers are Mexicans. I think the foremen speak english.

Richard

Ed Angell wrote:

Reply to
Richard Ferguson

I live in an area that suffered two hurricanes this year, and I have just about decided that I never want to live under an asphalt and/or fiberglass shingle roof. Metal roofs seemed to do much better than shingles. Concrete roofs (like mine) did best.

If the Foreman speaks english, you got the GOOD crew!

Vaughn

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Reply to
Vaughn

That's the case out here, too -- and they can do very good work.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

But aren't you from the LA area, where if it drizzles a little bit everyone is afraid to drive?

My dad was down there one June when it rained lightly -- the only people at Dizzyland were the Oregon contingent and a bunch of Japanese tourists.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

If the deck is strong enough I would consider fastening polyisocyanurate foam sheathing to the metal deck and topping it with fully adhered EPDM. Your local roofing manufacturer's rep can evaluate the deck and tell you if they will warranty it or not.

Reply to
ATP

Use the good screws called ZAC screws. The rubber is captured underneath the screw and cannot squirt out when tightened.

Reply to
Mike

You might want to check out:

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I saw this stuff at Lowe's and it seemed to be some pretty good stuff.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Drive less than 70 you mean.

Rain in June is bad juju to those in Southern California. Shrug..but then where I live in the Central Valley/high desert,. the average rainfall per year is 4"

The foam still seems to work very well.

Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem. To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized, merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

Reply to
Gunner

How about having a roofing company put Urethane layer over the top. Insulation and sound dreadining as well as waterproofing.

Martin

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

When I built my shop I used strongbarn, but couldnt find any when it came time to build a lean-to for the horses, so I used that ondura type stuff from Home Depot. They told me how much better than metal it is. Pfft... I wont use it again. All I can say is dont put it up on a slightly windy day cause if (4x6 sheets) you drop it you ruined it. Also dont slip with the hammer cause it doesnt dent real well. I knew a guy in Montana that built his metal shop and had it foamed as in Gunners post, `cept he had his done on the inside, the ceiling and walls. It was always nice and warm and bone dry.

Reply to
Forger

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 20:21:41 -0800, "Roger Shoaf" calmly ranted:

What price are they getting for that stuff? (just curious)

Reply to
Larry Jaques

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