I just had standing seam metal roofing put on our house this summer. The price quote at $4500 was about $1000 cheaper than conventional asphalt shingles. Two guys did the whole thing in four days total.
Granted, my roofing is pretty simple with no valleys. The only complication was the solar collector frame on the almost flat dormer roof. We just unbolted one leg at a time (collectors canted to the south) and slid the metal roofing under the leg. I made some treated lumber pads to spread the load. After we gooped the whole pad up with silicone, the leg was set back down and the clamping bolt hole redrilled and reinstalled.
I was a treat watching the sheets of ice sliding off after the latest storm. I was a little concerned whether the roofing would be noisy during heavy rain, but I couldn't tell the difference.
Chuckle! You'd have loved living here in Onalaska the past few years, where the official rain gage, some 30 miles away, registered almost 60" of rainfall each year, 150% of normal. Up in the hills where we live, it was greater, but there's no official rain gage so it's hard to say how much we received. . This year is running slightly less than normal, and it shows.
In the past two weeks we've received half a 5 gallon bucket of rain. Your
4" of annual rain sounds like nothing more than high humidity to us.
Just curious, how much do installers charge per square to replace asphalt shingles where you live? Around here, Eastern NC, the 2-man shingle crews will do simple new installation for 50 to 65 dollars a square on a 4/12 to
I don't recall the price, but I don't remember it being particularly expensive. I kind of liked the idea that tou could walk on the stuff unlike the tin.
I've used Ondura (sheds can be a very helpful platform to try out building materials) and while it has not leaked yet, one tiny roof was enough to cure me of using it for anything else. It's basically really heavy-duty corrugated tarpaper, painted on the outside surface. If you're not "walking" right on top of the nailheads, it will crush. The standard stock material is not fire-rated at all. And it flattens out in storage, so you need to sort of "squish" it into place to get the sheets to run correctly. An irritating material to work with.
Today, Tuesday, was the hottest December day for 30 years,
41.7C or 107F - and it is only early summer, can get much warmer in Jan & Feb, I am not too happy when it is over 110F or 45C.
I am building a new timber deck, 80 square metres, for my neighbours and stopped work at 12.15pm, just too hot to continue. Came indoors, turned on air-con and kipped for a couple of hours.
Hired a Paslode nail gun for the job, marvellous toy, beats an Armstrong hammer every time. Had all the frames nailed together by the time I quit, tomorrow the decking goes on - will start at 6am while it is cool although forecast is a cooler 30C/86F, so should get all the main deck completed and most of the deck around the fish-pond, I calculate about 2000 nails to go.
To return to topic, my house has a galvanised corrugated steel roof, about 15 years old so far, and shows no sign of corrosion despite being less than a kilometre from the Indian Ocean. It is fastened with Tek type screws with neoprene gaskets driven through the peaks of the CS, all rain runs down the troughs, no leaks so far but will have to go up on the roof before winter to check for any loosened screws.
For Tim, original poster, I suggest that you replace the lot. Nails always leak and two lots of nail holes will leak twice as much. The only other suggestion I can make is to have the roof sprayed with about 20mm of expanded urethane foam and have that foam covered by a sprayed bitumen emulsion. Advantage, the urethane is an excellent insulator but it will not be cheap.
Alan in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8 VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address
This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I have a simple, 2-plane roof over a 1500-sq ft house. Replacing the metal shingles, including removal & disposal, is about $2800. Just to replace with standing-seam painted steel is 3 times that. I know the materials aren't that expensive, and it's not rocket science to do the work. So why is it so expensive?
Rex B Fort Worth
||Thats fairly cheap compared to the midwest (Twin Cities area) || ||Backlash wrote: || ||> Just curious, how much do installers charge per square to replace asphalt ||> shingles where you live? Around here, Eastern NC, the 2-man shingle crews ||> will do simple new installation for 50 to 65 dollars a square on a 4/12 to ||> 6/12 pitch roof. ||> ||> RJ ||>
I was a steel erection contractor for nine years in Las Vegas. Our niche in the market was doing field welding of wrought iron, (ornamental metal, actually), and carport repairs. We did all the repairs in the Las Vegas area for U-Haul, (our favorite customer), and 275 apartment properties, as well as hotels and businesses. In the area of carport repairs, we used a lot of corrugated rolled roofing. We also used some standing seam roofing, which was a dinosaur of the way carports were made twenty years ago. For a
16" wide x 18' long SSR galvanized member, we paid about $30. The painted ones were about $42, as I recall. Plain galvanized corrugated was about $23 per panel. We charged $125 per sheet for the corrugated and $150 per member for the standing seam.
Why? Because I was in business to make money. It was what the market could bear. It took us ten minutes to make $125, but that was two men, a truck with $25k of equipment, liability insurance, industrial insurance, overhead, fast food lunches, advertising, a shop, etc.
You are right. Rocket science it ain't. There are ins and outs and tricks, but not anything to justify the prices some people charge. Yes, there is some prep involved. Yes, there is some labor and danger to get the stuff
15' in the air and not kill yourself or someone else. Yes, the industrial insurance rates are high, and BE SURE THAT IF YOU HIRE SOMEONE YOU GET A COPY OF THEIR CERTIFICATE! Verify it, too.
I would shop around and get labor only prices. Most guys will not want to do that because they make a ton on the materials, and some on the labor. You should be able to buy it from a supplier and get a decent price. The only thing to inflate it that much is profit, plain and simple. I know steel prices are up, but you will have to check and see where they are now. I don't believe it has gone up that much to make a roof worth $9k. Prices may be significantly higher for the nice colored stuff available now, but it really isn't $6 sf expensive. Google it up and find out.
Steve Thank you much for verifying what was becoming apparent to me. There is a local source - several in fact - for quality steel painted roofing. Would you recommend I buy what I want, have it delivered, and then seek installation bids? I'm in the car parts business, and installers don't think much of customers who bring their own parts ;)
Rex B
On Thu, 16 Dec 2004 11:37:41 -0800, "SteveB" wrote:
|| || wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@news2.txol.net... ||> This is a subject near and dear to my heart. I have a simple, 2-plane roof ||> over ||> a 1500-sq ft house. Replacing the metal shingles, including removal & ||> disposal, ||> is about $2800. Just to replace with standing-seam painted steel is 3 ||> times ||> that. I know the materials aren't that expensive, and it's not rocket ||> science to ||> do the work. So why is it so expensive? ||>
||> Rex B ||> Fort Worth ||>
|| ||I will try to help out. || ||I was a steel erection contractor for nine years in Las Vegas. Our niche in ||the market was doing field welding of wrought iron, (ornamental metal, ||actually), and carport repairs. We did all the repairs in the Las Vegas ||area for U-Haul, (our favorite customer), and 275 apartment properties, as ||well as hotels and businesses. In the area of carport repairs, we used a ||lot of corrugated rolled roofing. We also used some standing seam roofing, ||which was a dinosaur of the way carports were made twenty years ago. For a ||16" wide x 18' long SSR galvanized member, we paid about $30. The painted ||ones were about $42, as I recall. Plain galvanized corrugated was about $23 ||per panel. We charged $125 per sheet for the corrugated and $150 per member ||for the standing seam. || ||Why? Because I was in business to make money. It was what the market could ||bear. It took us ten minutes to make $125, but that was two men, a truck ||with $25k of equipment, liability insurance, industrial insurance, overhead, ||fast food lunches, advertising, a shop, etc. || ||You are right. Rocket science it ain't. There are ins and outs and tricks, ||but not anything to justify the prices some people charge. Yes, there is ||some prep involved. Yes, there is some labor and danger to get the stuff ||15' in the air and not kill yourself or someone else. Yes, the industrial ||insurance rates are high, and BE SURE THAT IF YOU HIRE SOMEONE YOU GET A ||COPY OF THEIR CERTIFICATE! Verify it, too. || ||I would shop around and get labor only prices. Most guys will not want to ||do that because they make a ton on the materials, and some on the labor. ||You should be able to buy it from a supplier and get a decent price. The ||only thing to inflate it that much is profit, plain and simple. I know ||steel prices are up, but you will have to check and see where they are now. ||I don't believe it has gone up that much to make a roof worth $9k. Prices ||may be significantly higher for the nice colored stuff available now, but it ||really isn't $6 sf expensive. Google it up and find out. || ||HTH || ||Steve || ||
And there's the rub. But cash talks, and if you want to find an installer, you can usually always find someone who wants to and knows how to install anything. I would ask questions of those you find, and make sure who you select knows what they are doing, but since you will be getting a big chunk cut off the price, you can't get TOO selective. Do some research ahead of time, to know what to expect, and stay on top of things during the installation.
Just as you would for wood, block, brick, whatever, ask the supplier if he can give you any names of people they use who are in the biz. Usually you don't have to go very far.
|| ||And there's the rub. But cash talks, and if you want to find an installer, ||you can usually always find someone who wants to and knows how to install ||anything. I would ask questions of those you find, and make sure who you ||select knows what they are doing, but since you will be getting a big chunk ||cut off the price, you can't get TOO selective. Do some research ahead of ||time, to know what to expect, and stay on top of things during the ||installation. || ||Just as you would for wood, block, brick, whatever, ask the supplier if he ||can give you any names of people they use who are in the biz. Usually you ||don't have to go very far. || ||You are in the driver's seat now. || ||Steve || ||
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