Mild Steal strength?

Jan 15, 2004 17 Replies

I want to make four square shackle type karabiner's. I will be using 3/4 x



3/16 (2" long) flat bar for the sides and will drill a 3/8 hole in each end. One end will have a 3/8 round bar (2-1/4 inch long) welded into the holes. The other end of the flat bars will be drilled and tapped to take a 3/8 bolt.

Bearing in mind that these square shackle type karabiner's will be made entirely from "Mild Steal", I am trying to find out what weight loading they are likely to hold without snapping the flat bar. Would one of you kind chaps mind working it out for me?


^ load I



I I___________I I I I___________I I welded round bar I I I I I I I I I I I I __ I I__________ I I__I I I I__________ I I__I I bolt I I I I I__I



I \/ load


Note there will be a weak spot on the flat bar where the bolt passes through. What weight will it take to snap it?



Thanks guys, Pipper.


Is that a misdemeanor, where then "hardened steal" would be a felony?

GTO(John)

Oh, NO! The speling polise!

What is the purpose of the "karabiner"? Carabiners are tools used in mountain climbing. If you intend to told a person's weight or is in anyway related to a safety issue; I wouldn't touch it for all the money in the world, let alone even think of mild steel.

Lane

Hey Pipper,

You seamed to have left out some important details. Like how far from the end of the piece will the "holes" be located. If the holes are the same distance in from the ends as they will be from the sides, which will be 3/16", then the 3/16 X 3/4" steel will not be the weak point. The bolts/pins will be the weak point, depending mostly on the spacing between the two plates. and the scariest part will be the bolt in the tapped hole. It at least needs to be shouldered or threaded to a tailored length so that it can not apply side pressure to the strap pieces. How are you going to make it "stay" without unthreading?

Take care.

Brian Laws>I want to make four square shackle type karabiner's. I will be using 3/4 x

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 21:32:50 GMT, "Tom Gardner" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

I try to stay out of spelling/grammar discussions, although I despair at some of what I see.

I do have to say that if somebody posts a question about metal work, on a metal forum, asking about probably life-risking lash-ups, then spelling steel correctly would certainly make me feel more comfortable about _some_ of the operation.

**************************************************** sorry remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I was frightened by the idea of a conspiracy that was causing it all. But then I was terrified that maybe there was no plan, really. Is this unpleasant mess all a mistake?

It will be shouldered "threaded" to a tailored length so that it can not apply side pressure to the strap pieces. A locking pin of some sort will be used to stop it unthreading. I need to get some idea of what weight it will handle. 250 kg maybe?

Well I sure hope your not going to hang your life on that item. I climbed trees for a long while and we use the same stuff as rock climbersin regards to biners etc, and aas many projects as I do I still would not make a project that I would depend on to h aold me or anmyone else in regards to climbing type things. Perhaps not a problem if your lifting something, but don;t risk your life on it. Visit my website:

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expressed are those of my wifes, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.

I would think so, easily.

Take care.

Brian XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX >It will be shouldered "threaded" to a tailored length so that it can not

As a rough guess and if I did not misunderstand your design............ The 3/4 by 3/16 bar has a cross section of 9/64ths of a square inch. But where the 3/8 bolt goes thru it, there is a ( 3/4 -3/8 ) or 3/8 by

3/16th cross section. This is 9/128th of a square inch. Since there are two pieces, the total is back at 9/64ths of a square inch. Mild steel has a strength of roughly 30,000 lb per square inch. So the strength is roughly 4000 lbs. Now this may seem like a bunch, but it is about the minimum that I would trust. You need a large safety factor for dynamic loads and the fact that you are talking human lifes. So if possible make an extra and test it to destruction and see where it fails. The sides may not be the weakest link. At the very least test it with at least five times your expected weight on it.

For what it is worth, the standard Coleman Rack uses a 3/8 dia mile steel rod. This has a slightly smaller cross section and I have never known one to fail.

Dan

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 03:51:17 -0000, "Pipper" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

You are still leaving out details,

and if anyone tries to give you an asnwer, since you still have not said what you will lift with this, then IMO they are fools.

There are too many variables. Welds, bolts, distances, steel quality (there is mild steel and mild steel).

Make one up. Test it to at least 5 times the weight you expect to lift, then _maybe_ you have a safe item. In fact test it to failure, and see what load it was. If not enough, then strengthen what broke and try again. If you are a really good welder, then you _may_ not need to test each one as you make it, to at least 3 times the weight you need to lift.

The problem with load lifting is that the weight of the load is not all the story. If the weight accelerates or decelerates while attached, you get increased force. Say the weight slips a few inches. You can tripple the "weight" when it pulls up quick at the other end,.

**************************************************** sorry remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I was frightened by the idea of a conspiracy that was causing it all. But then I was terrified that maybe there was no plan, really. Is this unpleasant mess all a mistake?

This thread reminds me of something I've been wanting to ask. Does anyone know where I can get some parachute material really cheap? Maybe surplus?

Oh, and does anyone have any good parachute designs? I'll need light material because my old sewing machine drops a lot of stitches with heavy thread. Is cotton OK?

I'll be using it for sacks of stuff weighing, oh, around 160 - 200 lbs., which we'll be tossing out of airplanes from high altitudes.

Any tips will be appreciated.

Ed Huntress

Brilliant reply Dan!

If the strength is roughly 4000 lbs that will be around 1.8 ton each, x 4 of them, so will do the job fine. It is actually going to be used for hanging

2 paragliding harnesses onto a strong tubular Aluminium frame (that attaches to a powered tandem paraglider) so that I can take a passenger up with me. The carabina things I'm making will be stronger at 1.8 ton than the Aluminium frame I'm fitting them to. The load will go to 5 times more (5 G's) if doing a spiral dive, but I won't be doing any of those when I have a passenger on, so that is not an issue here.

I think the Ali tube will be the weakest point (1.5 inch diameter with 3.5 mm wall thickness. Not to worry though, because all the tube and fittings will have a safety back up system made from car seat belt webbing, which is stronger than the webbing that is normally used on the paraglider risers and harnesses. The reason I am making them myself is because there are no ready-made items (carabina's) that I can readily buy to fit tube and harness's webbing correctly.

Thanks for your reply, we can now considder this thread closed.

Pipper.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 22:12:13 GMT, "Ed Huntress" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

hmp-hmp-hmp. Exactly

**************************************************** sorry remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I was frightened by the idea of a conspiracy that was causing it all. But then I was terrified that maybe there was no plan, really. Is this unpleasant mess all a mistake?

Hi Ed, For a load of 160 - 200 lbs you will need a round parachute (not square) of

45 to 60 square meters (about a 22 to 24 gore parachute) and will decend at around 5 meters per second. To buy one new would cost around $1,000. If you make one yourself, don't stitch it with cotton, you must use a strong thread, Polyester thread is pretty good. Nylon cord can be used for the lines.

I don't know where you will get the parachute material really cheap, but you might be able to buy some old knackered paragliders for next to nothing ($50 ?) and make your parachutes out of those. That way you will get the lines with them. I trust your sacks of stuff won't contain a human.. LoL

Pipper.

Thanks for the reply guys. Pipper.

As long as it's just for the passenger, than it's ok.

Paul K. Dickman

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