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Mill leveled

Updated pictures here

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I welded those feet that I made, onto the mill's movable base. While one stud became hard to turn, none became stuck. It was the first one that I welded. After some thinking, I realized that the decision to weld along the whole length of the bar, was wrong. I welded the rest, with four 1" long welds, along where the nuts are attached (most rigid areas). Remaining ones were not stuck at all.

Then I used a 12" Starrett precision level to level the mill. The level turned out to be very sensitive. After about 45 minutes, if not more, I finally got the mill leveled. It was a "step forward, two steps back" kind of procedure. But finally it worked.

At the end of leveling, I realized that the mill was only standing on three legs, with the fourth not touching the ground. Very embarrassing. I then slid a piece of paper inderneath that leg, and gently lowered that leg to the point where the paper just became firmly stuck underneath it.

I verified that the mill remained true.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus7760
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Iggy

It look's good, but I was surprised to see the end of the adjustment screws directly on the concrete rather than on some kind of steel pad.

I would worry that with just the end of the allthread resting on the concrete and nothing to "spread the load" vibration during operation will crush the concrete and you wil constantly be re-leveling. It looks like there was some spalling just from the initial leveling, That may have been part of the reason it took 45 minutes to level.

Carl Boyd

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Reply to
Carl Boyd

RCM only

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 00:08:28 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus7760 quickly quoth:

Those look solid enough, Ig. Hmm, why didn't you put rubber pads on metal washers at the ends? Look what they're doing to the concrete beneath them!

Feet could be made of rubber, nylon, UHMWPE, etc.

- Metaphors Be With You -

Reply to
Larry Jaques

That's a good idea. I have a thick kitchen cutting board, that I cut in pieces and use for its plastic, I could use it. Maybe today or in a few days.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus23517

No pad? No...I didnt look at the pictures.

Pad is 100% necessary! 1/4" may not be thick enough as it may over time turn into a bowl. 3/8" minimum strongly recommended, with a shallow depression for the levelers to rest in.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Gunner, i will definitely put it on pads when I find something suitable. I appreciate your word of wisdom.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus23517

Just stuck some 3/8" plate under the levelers..they really dont need to be more than 3"x3". Some misc. scrap would be hunky.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I cut a "board" today for my weather station mounting. I selected some of that fancy and expensive plastic deck material at Home Depot.

I used a thin carbide blade and did it make a mess. Cut very nice, but instead of curls and powder of sawdust, the curls were plastic.

An 8' x 8" would go a long way in the shop as a semi long life product.

What I determined on this 'please use this and not Cedar or Redwood' material - that costs twice or four times as much - not much incentive..

Now how about a large deck of this material - and the stacks of saw shavings - that won't bio-degrade and is a mess to clean up.

Nice product for long life projects - 12 to 16" support needed but I'll use up the other 7' somewhere.

Martin

Mart> >> RCM only

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Actually you should put something between the pad and the floor to ensure that the pad bears evenly. The big boys usually grout the mounting pads in and we once used a felt like material that went between the floor and the pad but probably a thin sheet of rubber would work.

Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

Reply to
Bruce

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