Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around.
These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-Bridgeport-Mill/Adjustable-Machine-Feet/
I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding these feet to the actual machine base).
My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment, over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place.
Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding).
My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to hear some opinions first.
thanks
i
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If you have movement (not too likely) a jam nut is simple, and perhaps more effective as well.
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Ignoramus7760 wrote:

Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up.
Paul
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Paul (and Ecnerwal) thanks. I am not sure if there is clearance for a jam nut, due to nuts having been welded to flat bars.
i
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wrote:

thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the bolts turn in their nuts.

thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive.
I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with.
By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the studs (for sockets and wrenches)
i
i
i
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On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:10:56 -0500, Ignoramus7760

<snip>
When I did my weight bench, I welded 3/4 hex heavy nuts on square tube, knowing the nuts would shrink from the welding. I just ran a tap through after welding.
Pete Keillor
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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor, i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were.
Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)
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wrote:

That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor. Dave
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OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2" diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them, maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable.
Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for the rotary table.
i
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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:09:12 -0500, Ignoramus23517

That will work, though simply plunging a 1" endmill in the center is quicker.
Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table......
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wrote:

So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill <G>
Mark Rand RTFM
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That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table..
i
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Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table?
Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work.
<G> LLoyd
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

He does it that way: Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-)))
Nick
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On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:56:41 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert or anything.
i
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Well, if you had a _really_good_ metrology level, and you _really_knew_ how to use it, and _really_had_the_time_ to set it that way.... seein' how's the heat of your hand could jump the bubble half a line...
LLoyd
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On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:49:50 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Lloyd, the machinist levels offer some reasonable degree of accuracy, I think. Comparable to a dial indicator over a not too much distance.
Anyway, I am sure that you know 100x more about this stuff, than I do.
i
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On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:49:24 -0500, Ignoramus3627

Thats NEVER going to happen in BP. Table sag and fixture deformation will bite you in the ass.
It might work on a big assed K&T, etc...but not on a Gumby..er Bridgeport
Gunner
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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, Andrew Mawson

I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and vacuum.
i
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