Pictures of my "Bridgeport mill mobile base on casters"

I welded together a mobile base for a Bridgeport mill. (the casters are removable so that for stationary operation, they are not
interfering and the casters do not get flat spots).
Most steel stock used came from a great Memorial Day garbage find.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-Bridgeport-Mill/Mobile-Bridgeport-Mill-Base-On-Casters/
http://tinyurl.com/yrbg38
There you can see some pictures, notes and video.
Here are the notes:
Pictured here is a homemade base for a Bridgeport mill that runs on casters. Design Objectives
* A failure of the base should not make the mill fall (hence it needed small floor clearance) * The bars with casters should be removable so as not to take valuable floor space and not to be a tripping hazard * During operation, the mill would stand on 2x4s beneath the base, with casters removed * Bars with Casters should be easy to mount again if the mill needs to be moved.
Some notes
The base is made from 1/4" flat stock (1/4" by 5" steel bar) and 1/4" angle iron. The bars holding casters are 3/16" thick 1.25" steel square tubing.
The casters are something to behold, these are NOT the usual Harbor Freight "heavy duty" casters. I bought them on eBay for $40, Here's the auction screenshot. They are rated for 2,400 lbs each, all swivel, and are made from very heavy plate. (1/2" and 3/8")
The welded-on a T-nut with a bolt in it (seen in front) was attached to provide attachment point for an eyebolt in case if the mill needs to be pulled. It is threaded for 1/2"-13 NC. The bolt is there just to show it better, it will be replaced with an eyebolt.
Enjoy the video of this base being gently kicked.
The internal dimensions of the base are 1/2" more than the dimensions of the bridgeport base.
Credits -- the PDF file showing Bridgeport mill base dimensions was created by Richard Kinch (see his shop). As a thank you, here's an SEO friendly organic link to his site: TeX for Windows.
Todo list: remove diagonal bar (tacked there for rigidity while setting up the frame), wire brush and paint the frame, drill 3/4" holes in the bottom of the frame for bolting the mill to the base.
(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)
PDF Document: Bridgeport-Mill-Dimensions-By-Richard-Kinch.pdf
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I like that. Putting the bars on, lifts the machine for transport and taking them off rests it solidly on the floor.
Wes
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Wes, I am not sure if I want to let the bolts that hold the arm to which the casters are attached, raise the mill by an inch, but that is a possibility. I am afraid of bending the bolts. Another possibility is to raise the mill by using something like a johnson bar, and then leisurely attach the caster holding bar.
Thanks.
i
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Well if you just snug up each bolt working around the base, you won't be lifting crooked. Matter of fact you can just skim the floor with the bp hanging from the bolts. I really like your base.
Wes
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I guess that yes, if I put and hold casters in a certain way (parallel to the bar) then it would indeed not be an issue. Great idea. Thanks.
i
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On Mon, 04 Jun 2007 10:50:46 -0500, Ignoramus27175

Wes, as a second thought, I can easily use a regular automotive jack to raise this mill (since it has those angle pieces sticking out that can be grabbed with a car jack), so no need to use the bolts for lifting.
i
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Sup I?
Are you inviting us to post our projects on here?
http://www.poojo.com/weld01 /
That's a trailer project of mine that turned out really well.
It is one heavy duty trailer; unfortunately, I now run my rig on a Toyota Flatbed.
The trailer is being stored in a barn.
The custom jig that the welding machine and torch bottles sat on will probably be sold within the next few months on eBay.
~Joe
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wrote:

Looks very interesting! (and great photos too). I wonder though if the "A" part of your frame is rigid enough.

Looks very nice.
Here's my trailer project:
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
i
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Really? What would you have suggested? Since I used 3/8-inch thick 3x3 angle iron welded to 3/8-inch plate, I never thought that would be an issue.
It is certainly more stable than the cheap Harbor Freight trailer I started with! It gave me some gray hairs a few times while pulling it down the road. Once, an offset speed bump nearly toppled the rig and caused me to stain the seat of my truck.

I liked the electrical box idea, but did not see where it was used on the trailer. Did you go with something else?
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wrote:

I think that with the 3/8" plate, it is definitely not an issue! I assumed, very wrongly that you had a 1/8" plate.

I do not have the pictures of the trailer with the box mounted, the box is on the trailer as of now, it hosts all electricals and has a compartment for paperwork and small stuff.
i
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Sweet. What is the engine hoist used for?
Wes
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looks nice, except that I don't think your supposed to transport bottles with the regulators attached. You should remove the regulators and install safety caps during transport. It will keep the neck from snapping off in an accident and making your trailer into a Jato propelled sled.
Tony

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That's a good call; I was going to mention that too.
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Well understood!
A lot of my jobs are short 30-minute patch work projects, then I pack up and go to the next one 3 blocks away. I understand that I should put the safety caps on, but I get sloppy sometimes. I don't always wear a helmet on my motorcycle, either.
On the other hand, I anticipated my laziness by pointing the bottles towards my truck instead of facing the panic stricken driver behind me.
When I have long trips (over 2-miles), I still put the caps on.
"Tony" wrote:

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Tony wrote:

I believe there are safety caps designed to protect an installed regulator, I've seen them on cylinders in racks on several service trucks. Can't be very expensive.
Pete C.
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I quite liked the idea implicit in the top three photos.... The welding sidecar :-)
Mark Rand RTFM
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Hmmm....
LOL
"Mark Rand" wrote:

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Mark Rand wrote:

You DO stand the acetylene bottle upright when you use it ,Don't you??
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Oh yeah! The rig design has the acetylene bottle mounted on a hinge mechanism. I lay the bottle down (and secure it with a pin) for transportation, then unhook the pin and set the bottle upright before use.
The O2 bottle stays on its side.
"Jerry Wass" asked:

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jp2express wrote:

By laying the acetylene cylinder on it's side with the regulator attached don't you risk damaging the hoses with acetone? Don't acetylene cylinders need to be upright for at least a couple of hours before use in order to allow the acetone to settle to the bottom?
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