Not sure how big you're planning on... but there were several youtube
videos for the HF version last I looked. It was a couple years ago, I
found them interesting. I wouldn't want to go any smaller than those
for a home brew.
On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 2:01:48 PM UTC-4, Leon Fisk wrote:
I am figuring on about the same size as the Harbor Freight mini backhoe.
Smaller would be about as expensive and less capable. And I really do not
need one, much less a bigger one. I have most of the steel already from sc
rounging at the local scrap yard. I have some cut offs of 1 inch dia stain
less steel. I might go a bit bigger for the boom swivel. I looked at what
was available at Fassio's ( a local steel distributor ). And can get hol
low bar there. The plans I have use 1 " for the boom swivel, but that see
ms small. So may spring for some larger material for the boom swivel.
I am not worried about the ground being too hard as it is clay and easy to
dig with a shovel ( except the clay sticks to the shovel. )
As heavy as the Case must be it is too light for hard ground. Even
really big machines struggle with hardpan. But since I am not making a
livung with my backhoe it really doesn't matter. The machine is
probably 100 times faster than me when it comes to digging ditches and
the like. Especially since I live on glacial till and it is full of
rocks of every size and description.
On Mon, 16 Oct 2017 17:32:36 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
They didn't. My friend's CK oes not. The shuttle shift is weird. There
is a torque converter as well as a clutch in the tractor. So to change
gears requires stepping on the clutch but forward to reverse and back
is just done by moving the lever. I have only the vaguest idea how it
all works inside but I love it. I had never even sat on a backhoe when
I bought mine. Took some learning to run it passably well. But man, is
it ever fun.
On Mon, 16 Oct 2017 17:32:36 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I think I remember reading in the manual that some didn't. And the
trans on mine indicates a reverse position that doesn't seem to exist.
I presume that's there for models without the shuttle. Anyway, I can
tell you it's a pain to replace that shuttle gear assembly. Not
terribly difficult, just a pain. Sure is nice to have it back working
though. How bad are your brakes? Mine look good inside, but are barely
adequate to keep the machine from rolling backwards on a 10% grade. I
keep the bucket flipped and low in case of emergency. :)
The brakes are great. No problem locking up the wheels. How can the
shuttle shift work without a torque converter? When my CK gets low on
transmission fluid it takes forever for it to warm up enough to move.
I need to fill it way above the full mark on the dipstick for it to
move as soon as I start it. I think it may have the wrong dipstick.
Also weird is that the engine NEVER gets low on oil. And it's not gas
leaking past the rings keeping the oil level up. It must be a leak
between the engine and the transmission unit that is filling the
engine very slowly with transmission fluid. I have been having trouble
getting the carb adjustment right. Found out why. There is about 1/16"
play in the throttle shaft where it goes through the back side of the
carb. This winter the carb is coming off so I can rebuild it.
On Mon, 16 Oct 2017 16:30:59 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Are they bands on drums, with a cam assist to a flat plate?
No trans fluid. Just gear oil in the torque tube and trans.
Yeah, I crudely bushed mine and added some o rings to take up space.
Runs decent but not perfect, hard to know if it was ever much better.
Hand throttle was terrible until I fixed a seized cross shaft linkage
for the foot throttle. Took a whole afternoon including some lathe
work, but was worth it to have a foot throttle.
Have you seen this?
Mine is not quite so shiny. :) Hoe is different on mine, lift
cylinder is buried in the boom.
Oops, just realized I've been talking 530 and you guys 580. That
explains why you have brakes, and I have brake simulators. :)
Do you step on the clutch to use shuttle shift? Mine is just a lever
on the steering column. My brakes are the shoe/disc combination.
Where the shoe stops one disc from rotating which causes the balls to
climb the ramp which presses on the disc. I guess it's a good way to
amplify foot pressure in a purely mechanical way. But they are prone
to locking up.
On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 09:14:10 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes. It has a neutral position which I had to use the other day
because the transmission won't go into neutral or 1st. I think one of
the shift forks has come out of its groove. Couldn't have happened
unless something's wrong with the shifter, which wouldn't surprise me.
Shuttle cover looks like this
Left lever is forward-reverse, right lever is high-low range.
On mine the forward reverse shuttle is a mechanical shifter on the top
of the torque tube. Here's a parts breakdown of the entire assembly.
I replaced the subassembly 8A. I see that the same thing is used on
Sounds like mine is the same arrangement.
It's not a shoe though, but a band around a drum. I cleaned
everything, lightly greased the balls, and adjusted. It works Ok on
the level, but is really crap when I'm pointed up a steep hill and
stopped trying to shift gears. I figured it surely must have worked
better when new, but a friend who knows these tractors from the old
days told me the brakes were never any good. Based on your experience
though, I'll give everything a more critical look next time it's
Ed, if you're reading this, please give your opinion on the
arrangement. The plate 35 presses against the inside of the housing.
It seems to me that the cam/ball/disc thing can only be effective IF
the band is effective, which makes it a dubious idea. Ever known
anything else that uses such a system?
Wphew, you're really asking the wrong guy. It looks to me like the
balls ride on ramps, and the drum would have to be clutched to a stop
(by the band), or nearly so, for the balls to ride up the ramps and
put pressure on the discs, right? It looks like the balls are part of
a freewheeling clutch.
If I'm reading it right, then I agree: I can't see any other way you
could apply pressure to the discs.
Transmissions like this are outside of my realm of experience.
However, that balls-riding-up-ramp thing, if that's what it is, is a
type of freesheeling/overrunning clutch that has been used in
machinery for decades -- maybe 100 years. Saab had one in their
original 2-stroke-engine cars, but the balls were arranged around the
outside of a cam and pressed against the inside of a wheel, IIRC.
Also, if my memory is working, I think that Harleys have a face-ramp
type somewhere in their power train.
Such freewheeling clutches are known to be problems when they get
worn. But, again, I'm making some guesses based on that vague
Exactly. I suppose it's supposed to multiply the effect of the band.
Except that the band is wimpy, and unless it's gripping sufficiently,
there isn't much pressure on the balls and the plate.
It's a very primitive manual brake system. One housing outboard on
each side of the transmission. Here are some pics
In this one, you can see the left brake housing just ahead of the rear
axle housing. The disc pushes against the outboard face of the
Here's one that's a little more true to life. :)
Brake housing is just below the guy's hand. Comes off easily, bands
stay with the housing. Then the drum with the disc and balls slides
off the output shaft. Points given for being easy to work on but it's
quite a bit of iron considering the anemic performance.
It's strange, for a brake. There must have been some considerations
that aren't obvious, in order to engineer something like that.
After all, leading-shoe drum brakes will give you all the mechanical
"amplification" you want.
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