Minor Gloat

I often cruse through the local scrap yard and not find anything that I want. But yesterday there was a console and I striped out of it some useful stuff.
A power strip about six feet long with an outlet about every 10 inches. It will replace the power strip behind my bench that has about half as many outlets.
Another power strip with nine outlets and one switch. Short only about 20 inches long.
A bunch of power cords with plugs.
A temperature controller.
A 24 volt very small power supply.
A panel with a dozen dpdt center off toggle switches.
A bunch of terminal strips.
And not part of the console, a electric heater assembly from a heat pump and a nice sized box for controlling three model trains with three reostats and toggle switches.
All told 35 lbs of stuff. They asked $9 ,but I gave them $10. It will all even out eventually. Not earth shattering, but I hate to buy stuff like that retail.
Topping out the day, I got a package from China with a dozen 5 gram tubes of diamond lapping paste. It was just over $10.
Dan
Reply to
dcaster
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My bench is not all that big, but the current power strip only has 6 outlets. The new one has 11 outlets in the same length. More is not always better, but in this case it is.
Dan
Reply to
dcaster
Hey Dan,
Put altogether, that's running into a MAJOR gloat !!
Mind if I ask where you ordered the diamond paste? URL available?
Thank you.
Happy New Year.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Reply to
Brian Lawson
I ordered some too ... I have some bearings (loose rollers !) that will need lapping as I rebuild the trans and motor for Dad's old Harley . 1939 WLDD flathead mutt .
Reply to
Terry Coombs
eBay vendors have it for a buck or two, including shipping. Goto
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and search for "diamond lapping paste"
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Look for the 6pc sets, and watch those larger lots going for a penny. You'll often pay more for them, but some escape for the single penny, delivered halfway around the world to you. It's crazy great. 13pc of 5g syringes of varying grits, $10.50 w/ free shipping.
I got another Chinese Connection package in the mail today, too. Ten 15w LED spotlights with E27 (medium light bulb) base for $24.53, dlvd. They're beautifully bright, and 2 are now adorning my motion/security light over the front walk and one is lighting my living room bookcase. 50 other shapes and sizes of LEDs are on the way, too. Some T10 wedgies of varying SMD-counts and sizes (2106, 3528, and 5050), and some T10 bases with pigtails for stray work. All are 5500-6500k in color, nice and white. Prices were $0.04-0.99 each. The funny thing is that some were running $2.29 apiece, but I picked up a lot of 10 for $2.99, with free shipping. I love it.
(snipped Dan's nice gloat)
Here's some other fun stuff from China:
10pc 5k 1/2W pots for $3.19 wfs (with free shipping) 10pc 10k 1/2W pots for $3.19 wfs 10pc knobs for above pots for $0.99 wfs New 30v 5a bench power supply for $51.99 wfs (US vendor) 2pc aluminum carabiner water bottle clip w/ compass $0.99 wfs USB multimeter tester $1.25 wfs EN-EL9 battery for my Nikon $6.35 wfs (US vendor) 21w white LED ceiling light fixture $17.16 wfs 14 function bicycle repair tool/chain brkr $4.29 wfs
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3 hole knotting tool (tent holddown rope sliding clip)
(Merry Christmas to Larry from Larry)
Reply to
Larry Jaques

I might have been able to have paid a little less. I just bought from the lowest price vendor in the buy it now option. I paid $10.44 for 12 syringes.
Dan
Reply to
dcaster
My package today:
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I bought the amber ones, to put on heater thermostats. These two turn on dimly at 0.4~ 0.5A AC.
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
I bought the same dozen from the same seller . Dan , I have a bearing race that's pressed into a hole in a Harley 3 speed case . That race was perfectly fitted to the clutch gear before I pressed it into the case . Now it's out of round ... thus the need to lap the race . I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble of peressing it back out to check the hole and the race . Might be that the race is perfect and the hole is out of round , might be variations in the thickness of the race . Either way it's unacceptable as-is with OOR .0015" total Should I decide to lap it in place , what material do you suggest for the lap ? I have on hand lead , wheel weight material , aluminum , and several grades of steel . I can cast anything but the steel directly onto a mandrel for machining to maintain concentricity - I will be using a guide bushing on the other side of the case to maintain alignment . I started an adjustable lap set several years ago , but it never really worked out like I wanted . I did learn a lot though !
Reply to
Terry Coombs
I would press the race out of the housing. The race is not likely to have been out of round or have variations in the thickness. So I suspect the ho le is not round.
I am not an expert on laps and lapping. What I read is that the lap must b e softer than the metal being lapped. That is so the abrasive embeds in th e lap and cuts the metal. So what is the Harley case made of? I suspect a luminum so you would want something softer than aluminum. So lead or wheel weight material. I think most wheel weights are now Zinc and could be too hard. That assumes you are lapping the hole and not the race. If you lap the hole , you may need to use locktite compound when you put the race bac k in. I am pretty sure they have a compound for seating bearings. yes, th ey have several retaining compounds.
Dan
Reply to
dcaster
Too bad you have to shut off the power/remove the cord/disassemble the circuit to install those. Handy gadgets, tho.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
If I modify the case it'll be with a boring head . I hadn't considered using a retaining compound . I was just thinking about the forces involved - this bearing is also the main thrust bearing for the clutch - and that may be the correct solution . I'll be loading up the bike and bringing it home from Memphis in the next few weeks . I have a very few pieces here because I haven't had storage space . That is about to change , the time has come to get this machine back on the road .
Reply to
Terry Coombs
That's hardly an unreasonable burden for someone who spent his career building and repairing electronics. This is a semi-permanent installation until I need them elsewhere. I had been using a Fluke clamp-on current probe extended upstairs from the breaker box with an extension cord but it's a tripping hazard, and the Fluke is too expensive to suggest buying new.
-jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
True. But in some cases, it's an extreme hassle to install one where you want it. I looked into current sensing to automate my dust collection system for the shop and it looked like more hassle than it was worth.
Verily. Fluke is very proud of their (very good) stuff. I'll be investing a full $11.99 at HF for a clamp-on current probe DVM later this week.
Oh, my new 12w LEDs are very, very bright but only take 5w of current. Hmm... Typical Chiwanese power/Sears horsepower stats, wot? The funny thing is that the 4-LED 12-watters take less power than the older 3-LED 9w (7w draw) spots I bought a couple years ago, and they're considerably brighter. Alas, when I went out to get the Sunday paper last night (he delivers between 9:30 and 10pm), I noticed that my new, bright spots were strobing once per second. I wonder if the trick I used for the CFLs will work here: Addition of a 220kohm resistor across the mains.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
...
Keep watching eBay...it won't get to the HF pricing, but I've bought a couple Fluke meters for _VERY_ reasonable prices...about 10c on the dollar at the low end; about 25% retail/new for the more expensive/exotic.
Just probes and the like generally are pretty cheap w/o the instrument altho I've not bought Fluke-branded I've bought quite a few Tektronix...you do have to be patient sometimes, though, so if it's an immediate need that can't wait isn't always the option.
Reply to
dpb
Yeah, but so much of that stuff is abused so badly, it's worth only those pennies. It too often takes luck to get a good one.
I forgot to ask if you had the Tek 422 manual when I was there. The intensity pot is flaky (open), but it will work in several spots. The Tek was calling out to me "Calibrate me!" as I cleaned and put a new pair of probes on 'er.
12w LED security lights: I think the 100k resistors (didn't have 220k) across the input fixed the strobing on the LEDs. They're out there on the wall again and not flashing. Once it's fully dark out there, I'll see fer sher. The lamps unscrew and I could run the resistor right across the PCB at the leads to the base.
Reply to
Larry Jaques
...
I've never had an issue simply by using common sense in selecting sellers from which to buy and looking...the Fluke clampon meter looks pristine and was complete down to the little caps over the probe tips...
Reply to
dpb

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