I remember the old Simpsons from school. Solid analog bastids.
Got it from Mikey's link, but thanks. Much better than paying some leech $60 for one. I applaud Ig and these folks for making so many manuals available.
Yeah, I guess it felt familiar for some reason.
Yeah, I'll have to do that and see if I can refurb the batteries. Got any tips there?
Oh, do you have the face cover, by any chance?
It worked. No more strobing. It'll cost me about $0.06 a month, though, at 1.2mA, unless the triac leakage which turns it on limits that, which is fairly certain. I'll have to do that with the rest, too, then test them in my dimmer circuit. It may be the only thing which separates the two, dimmable from non-dimmable, at least in the cheap Chiwanese lights. Who knows?
Still amazed at the 520lumen output from 6 watts. I LOVE LEDs!
NO biggie. I just thought if it had been misplaced, I'd love to have it for storage. C'est la vie.
They're actually 600lm, not 520. I put one in the hall fixture and one over the washer & dryer. They work just great and should outlast me, with 50k hour MTBFs.
Buy the coils, as they're cheaper. You can cut them every three lights to maintain the 123v theme. Check the penny sales with free shipping, as many of them go unsold. Bid on a dozen a week until you win a few, maybe even going as high as a dollar apiece! It may take a few weeks, but you'll get one or more in that time. I decided that $7.89 wasn't too much to pay for a meter of 'em with a 120v-12v power supply, including shipping. Prices have dropped since then.
Huh? I haven't heard of that size. Ooh, there's a new 5630 now: Big boys at 5.0 x 3.0mm for the chip!
Red for maintenance of your night vision? "Don't do strips, do single lights." would be my suggestion.
It depends on what you want them for. General lighting? Any would work: 3528, 5050 being the most common size available. I have a meter of high-density 3528s under my kitchen cab and it's actually too bright for my taste, but it might brighten up a boat cabin just right, used indirectly and bounced off white paint. Generally, the smaller the LED size, the less the current draw of the strip. They come in two densities, too, for brighter lighting. Be sure of what you're ordering. It can be confusing. Only a handful of the vendors state LEDs per meter (30 or 60 is common.) Strings of 3528 at 60/m are about the same brightness as strings with 5050 at 30/m.
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some visuals and lumen specs for ya.
For task lighting (ie: reading) one of the little wedgies would be great. I'm collecting a sample batch of each size, from 9 SMDs to 28, plus 1w, 3w, and 9w domed style for my truck backup lights. The 3w were OK, but I'm waiting for the 9watters to really light up my old backside. I'll be adding rather than replacing.
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Search "t10 smd led cool" on eBay for the wedgies. small
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med
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large
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socket
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Buying 10x quantities can be cheaper than a single or pair of bulbs or sockets. Go figure! And don't forget to flag for Free Shipping only.
If you have task lighting fixtures in the cabins already, replace the incans with LEDs. They come in all shapes and sizes. I prefer the
6000k cool white (more like daylight) to the amber 2700k crap. If you had halogen lighting, CR16s might work, or little
I like the little panels crammed full of SMD LEDs, too. 1210, 3528,
5050 sizes. Six to forty eight LEDs per panel, most under $2, including shipping and 3 different fixture styles.
I hear amber works for shooting glasses, but they amplify any light to me and make me squint. That can't be good for shooting. I don't like anything amber, from incan lighting to sunglasses to shooting glasses.
Jewelcome.
Chure, chure.
Anything 4100k or higher is fine by me.
Congrats.
Oh, no. Now you'll never find a way to get that last 5gal bucket contents to me...
Keereckt. I just don't respond to every message you, um, aim at me. ;)
Sadness: I came home after dark last night and one of my brand new LEDs had already died. 2 days! Burntesting the rest now so I can give the vendor feedback and product replacement request.
The behavior of the thermostats isn't obvious. The bathroom one has a shutoff near fully CCW that makes no sound, so I can't tell if it's off or set low, or couldn't until this morning. It appears to have an internal anticipator which causes the room temperature to slowly stairstep up over an hour or so; at first it shuts off at 60, but an hour later it's still cycling and the room is at 68.
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Maybe the old idea of setting the thermostat to 80F to make a cold house warm up faster had some merit?
I'm datalogging the current to other one and room temperature, with no other heat source. So far it looks like a single ~700W radiator can hold the house at 50F. Outside is at 3F now and dropping. Tomorrow morning I should know if that radiator is an adequate automatic backup to the wood stove and how much it costs to run. Last winter the weather warmed before I completed the datalogging setup.
Ever get that feeling? "I'm cold. Is that heater on and working?"
With the new electronic tstats, yes. Anticipation circuits work on both the up and downstroke of temp now, too. '80s heaters had to rely on mechanics, via the bimetal strips. Electronic tstats can watch the temperature curve and adjust logically. I love it! EXCEPT in the case of quick warming of a cold house after a vacation, etc.
With the new HVAC units being steeped in Green, it takes hours for my house to come down to temp in the summer if I've left the tstat off to enjoy some fresh air via open-door breezes. Saving energy costs time.
Heat stratification is the bane to my existence. I hated the fireplace in my old house and hated the wall heat in the new house, so I installed a Carrier Infinity here, complete with my first A/C unit!
That said, what kind of airflow mechanism do you have to distribute that room's hot air to the house? Ditto for the woodstove. I've tried single-point heat and have always found it to suck, bigtime. Something I've never tried is to distribute that heat to other rooms in the house via a ductwork in the attic or crawlspace, just like the real forced-air units I love. A couple or 3 reversible muffin fans would do that with insulated 4" ducting for not too much cost. Suck it directly off the ceiling in the heated room and blow it elsewhere for a whole-house flow, just like a -real- HVAC system. ;) As long as there's a flow of air, I can take warmer temps in the house in the summer.
I haven't found much of a selection of line-switching electric heat thermostats, and the two I have that can be set below 50F aren't well calibrated so I've been measuring and marking their actual settings on them. I don't want them turning on unnoticed (thus the LEDs) from the normal wide swing of wood heat. The one I'm testing increases my daily electricity consumption from 4 KWH to 20 KWH.
2.8A * 240V * 24 Hrs = 16.1 KWH
My neighbors with similar houses and basement stoves need circulating fans to keep happy, but I've added enough extra north wall, ceiling, door and window insulation that the stratification isn't bad with only natural circulation up the stairwell. My basement is normally about
10F warmer, theirs was closer to 20F without the fans.
Right now an infrared thermometer shows about 4 degrees difference between the top and bottom of interior door frames. A fine wire thermocouple reads a 6 degree spread between the ceiling and desktop air, with the stove running hotter than usual to turn off the thermostat SOON.
I bypassed the anticipator heater when I installed the current coil so it needs the full on/off differential to develop the energy to snap off. I think the anticipator would compensate for much of the differential.
That's quite a substantial increase! I'm using 11kwh/day now, which means I might need more than the 45w HF panels to supply it.
Of course, that's just a guess.
I don't see how a bit of insulation would destratify stagnant hot air. In fact, the lack of heat loss would tend to stratify it more, reducing the natural circulation of the air being cooled due to the lack of insulation. I've missed your point here.
You must have a bit of circulation in your house to prevent much strat.
Are you saying that you think the anticipator would de-stratify your air better? I can't see how.
Instead of theorizing you can make the air flow visible by ballasting a Mylar helium balloon to neutral buoyancy and watching where it travels, being careful to keep it off exposed hot bulbs and the wood stove. Added insulation and sealing leaks reduces the "stratification" by reducing the amount of cooled air flowing down the outside walls and across the floor.
Latex balloons lose helium rapidly enough that you have to ballast them with paper dampened with water or rubbing alcohol to keep the buoyancy close to neutral for a useful length of time.
The switch in a line voltage thermostat has to snap open rapidly and far enough to break the arc, and the compressed spring energy this requires comes from a differential of several degrees between the turn-on and turn-off points.
Say the difference is 5 degrees. If the anticipator heats the thermostat by 4 degrees while the contacts are closed, the air temperature has to rise by only 1 degree to shut off the heat.
Doesn't the flow of cooler air to the bottom create flow in the room, decreasing stratification? Or is it too slow for that? I can feel cold drafts from windows if I stand barefooted in front of the window. Maybe that's not enough to swirl room air.
OK.
I 'got' the mechanical point. I was asking about the strat. I had misread what you were referring to.
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