more on welding - pic of weld

I'd up the current a bit and get the top part of the weld to wick better to the vertical. You have a lump where you should have a fillet.

-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

Thanks again for all the tips..i will respond more as I try different things.

I obtained some 3/32" 6013, and am practicing with that. I can't find 7014 at the local store or home depot..will have to wait till tuesday to go to a real store.

I ran a bead of the 3/32 down a piece of scrap tube, just on the flat, and it does seem to just drag along quite a bit easier than the 7018.

One important question I have:

It would make part of the design simpler if I can weld the tubes one on top of the other at 90degrees instead of a 90 degree butt joint.

Is this going to be ok? I will try one and post a picture.

Rick

Cutting might be easier (depends on your equipment). Design easier? I kind of doubt this. Welding will be a tad harder, and the optics will be ugly. :-)

I would be ashamed to show such a joint to someone. ;-))

Nick

Yeah, I nixed that idea anyway. I just needed to be able to pass cables through the tubes, and didn't want to add 2 more welds to the structure. I figured it out now though.

On the plus side, I made a quick and dirty welding table out of a 3 foot by 4 foot piece of 1 inch thick pool table slate, which anyone can get free at their local pool table dealer. (They sometimes have 1 of a matched set of 3 break, and they toss the other 2).

It makes *such* a nice precision non coductive surface to weld on, and it is solid as..well ..a rock :-)

I am getting a bit better welds with the 3/32 6013, but I am having problems in the first 1/3 of the weld with slag inclusions...the final 2/3 actually looks like a nice fillet weld. Maybe I should just weld 2/3 of the joint :-)

rick

Now this would have been an argument.

Non conductive? I prever welding on a table that is conductive. You just hook ground to the table and don't have to re-clamp gnd whenever you move work.

Well, this is the hard part. You have to learn to see the puddle and not to look at the slag. I don't know your numbering system. I think the easiest stick are the cellulose-type. But they are more expensive, stink more and are harder to start.

Nick

Your bad first 1/3 is usually due to racing off before the weld puddle has fully formed. Try starting about 1/8" from the end, let the puddle form, move to the end, and do your weld. Once you get the hang of starting and the puddle, turn your amperage down, it gives you a lot more time to move the puddle around.

You said a 90 degree butt joint? I assume that means an end into a side??

Weld>

There is no slag (or smoke) with MIG. :

Where on the west coast? If you are in So. Cal, Id be happy to let you play with any of the welders I have, stick, tig, mig.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown

Interesting.....

My Dan Mig 200 is at least 20 yrs old and is still percolating just hunky dory, even after spending most of its life in a muffler/autobody shop.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown

Id go nuts with that table..my steel top welding table is grounded directly to the machine(s) with a flying ground clamp for stuff that is rusty and wont make contact very well with the table top.

Becareful of spalling..where you heat the rock up really hot in one place and a chunk pops out and hits you in the face or the gonads...

But it sounds like you are getting a really good start at doing it right.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years, the world has a long way to go to regain its credibility and reputation with the US." unknown