Rig welding-Rod oven trick

Thought I would share something I was made aware of the other day. I am
running a 1997 lincoln Classic 3 D on my welding rig. I have the 110 volt
AC power plugs and also the 230 Volt AC plug ins.
I know a lot of guys that hate to plug their rod ovens in because when
they do, it puts the welding machine on high idle all day and makes for more
wear and fuel costs.
I found a way to plug a rod oven in to the lincoln and it won't
go on high idle. I went to the 230 volt AC plug and did a test where you
have two hots (each hot wire being 110 volts) and a ground. One hot side
dosen't go to the exciter that revs up the machine. So I took the hot side
that didn't go to the exciter and then the ground and made a pigtail from
the ground and hot side to a 110 volt female plug. I labeled it "ROD OVEN
ONLY" as it does not give 110 volts at an idle. I put a volt meter on it at
idle and it gives about 85 volts. When it fires up to high idle when you
strike an arc it resumes to 110. This is acceptable to a heating element as
it just won't burn as hot while at idle.....saves on fuel. My 7018 rods are
still warm and I haven't been given a porosity repair yet under x-ray.
Thought I would share and works pretty slick.
Jim Morris
Reply to
Jim
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Could you use the heat from the exhaust gases to do the same thing - or wouldn't it be hot enough? Geoff -- You can deal with the devil, he at least keeps his word, but if you deal with the government, you deserve whatever befalls you. DIY rolling road dyno plans, Radar detector FAQ, Forte Agent automation FAQ, bathroom fan FAQ and THE WORLDS BEST CHRISTMAS PUDDING RECIPE are at
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Reply to
Geoff M
The purpose of a rod oven is to drive off moisture. Some form of heat exchanger would be required to transfer the heat while avoiding the water which is a combustion by-product. Same problem faced by woodworkers who use unvented fueled heaters in their shops - rusts the tools.
Reply to
Thomas Kendrick
Sounds like a welding project to me. Might provide a bit more muffling, too, which is always good in my book (so long as it's not done in an overly restrictive fashon, and that's a pretty easy condition to maintain). I run a small car muffler on top of my rig (after the pathetic factory "muffler") anyway.
Take a tube of whatever size is good for the rod you want to store, another tube an inch or two bigger, weld a back on both of them, weld a ring to the smaller one, weld the ring to the larger one, exhaust in, exhaust out, perhaps a valve arrangement (with bypass) to adjust temperature and a thermometer to know when to fiddle with it (or a thermostat to control it automagically). A door. Might be similar to some woodstove ovens with a baffle that can direct the gas all around the inner tube before it goes out, or to the out pipe with minmal contact with the inner tube.
Mounting needs to be adequate for whatever weight of rod you stick in there, plus the thing itself. Probably fed with a flex-hose from the muffler output would be best (not stressing the muffler in the machine, not transmitting engine vibes to the oven). Increase pipe size right at the muffler connection and maintain the larger size througout to keep restriction down. Some insulation over the outside to hold heat a while when it's off, and/or keep you from burning yourself on the exterior.
Reply to
Ecnerwal
geoff snipped-for-privacy@bigfoot.com.delete.nospam (Geoff M) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
I remember that some of the SAE-300, SAE-400 Lincoln Generator welders came with "rod warmers" on them. All they were was a open ended length of 3" thin wall pipe, with a bracket, where it mounted right directly over the exhaust manifold, on the 6 cylinder Teledyne Continental Motor. You stuck your electrodes in this "open ended pipe".
Phil
Reply to
Phil

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