First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.
I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving. Its a type S 65.
Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?
The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.
I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving. Its a type S 65.
Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?
The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
Use an insert for a 1/4" die grinder that holds a 1/8" shaft.
First off, sorry about posting something concerning metalworking.
I bought a Precise brand high speed spindle off ebay to try engraving. Its a type S 65.
Can't find a collet for it. Ideas?
The pic is of a 1/4" collet, I need a 1/8"
Just go their site, Karl. If they make that collet for it you'll find it there.
Tom
Oops, meant to also mention their collet reducers.
Tom
Not sure that is the same collet as is used in my Precise spindle. But, it is the same general style. Precise still supplies collets, but I have to warn you, they are REAL expensive. When I inquired a few years ago, I think they were about $86 each. I THINK these are proprietary, but it would be nice if there was a 2nd source.
Jon
When I was using Bosch Colt trim router as spindles on my Taig and MaxNC mills I made several 1/4-1/8 adaptor bushiings with a set screw to hold 1/8 end mills. I made them on my cheesey little Harbor Freight 7x10 lathe. As long as I did the whole thing in one setup they came out pretty good. I made tens of thousands of dollars worth of molds using my home made brass bushings.
K2CNC (now VeloxCNC) also used to sell a bushing for that on Ebay. I bought one, and then made my own from then on.
Outer diameter is not critical as long as its conecntric with the inner bore. I spotted, drilled, and then reamed with decent results. Keep drill bits as short as possible. Use the extra stiffness of carbide bits to reduce wander. I manually drilled and tapped the set screw. 8/32 or 6/32. I forget which.
Here is a picture of a couple.
I did make a couple more that I tapped and put stop screws in the back to prevent push thru when doing aggressive plunging, but for most things they were unnecessary. I couldn't find any of those to include in the picture. Sorry.
yep, this one probably won't get it. But I'll look for an extreme precision one. Its a good idea
Cone with top chopped off: 0.627 high, bottom OD .509, top OD .300
???
their reducers were only for .500 to XXX
didn't see the collet, thanks anyway
Did you find a USA supplier, my web foo only found Europe.
Karl
Bob, I'm looking for far more precision than lathe work.
I ordered this one
I'm just a hack when it comes to this sort of thing, but I was pretty happy with the results. I wasn't volunteering to make them for you. I was saying you can make them for yourself.
WHAT AN INSULT! That is an STG58 FAL. One of the best battle rifles ever made. I don't think much of CETMEs. Now a true G3 is a fine rifle, but they ruin the brass for reloading (fluted chamber) so I don't have one.
The problem I had was timing. When the brarrel got tight on the receiver it was past 12:00. I ended up making a custom shim.
I had asked on FAL files. Apparently they don't have machinists over there. The suggestion was cut a shim by hand. UGH. Look on through; you can see how i made it.
My youngest son's SCAR 17S is a fine rifle. I just can't stand the price, or I'd get one. I've shot two deer with it, both dropped where they were hit. My middle son just bought a Ruger SR762. Remains to be seen how it shoots. Meanwhile, I just use the Marlin 1895 in .450 Marlin I got for Christmas one year. Nowhere near the capacity of those other two, but if I hit something, it seems to stay hit. And it'll shoot just fine out to 250 yards (if you know the range).
Pete Keillor
I have never heard of a fluted chamber. Why would that be done? Eric
How is the chamber machined? Brilliant idea!
I just can't visualize the cutting of the neck with a broach. Maybe by forcing a male to impress the lines... Any case, brilliant.
My son has the HK21, the beltfed version of the G3
The fluting is shiney and polished, can't have been EDMed. My guess is its pressed in, just like rifling buttons do it.
The HK21 brass is not reloadable, IMHO. But we did buy a whole gaylord pallet of surplus military 7.62 brass so we'll be good for a while.
Karl
Well, some Gaylord pallets can disappear pretty quick.
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