Need drill bit grinder

I do this. The flat bottom ones. The trick is to grind the end of the drill flat and square first, then grind the reliefs. A machinist's square is plenty good enough. Since I only do this to make counterbores they don't need to cut all the way to center. And it really is easy. Use a Sharpie or similar fel pen to color the end to see where you are grinding. ERS

Don,

I have been writing my reply usu. underneath a quoted passage of the original post and then oftentimes deleting everything else in the message. Does this not come across as I intended?

Bob Swinney

I doubt this "skill" could be extended to accurately point drills of 1/8" or smaller. I would guess most people with a drill sharpening gadget have it primarily for accurate work with small drills.

My point precisely!

Bob Swinney

Check Lautards article (one of the bedside series) re. frinding small drills.

Bob Swinney

It does -- in the ones where you actually *have* added text. But some show no changes at all to the quoted text -- just the whole text quoted with nothing added by you. And there seems to *always* be either a followup to that with new text posted by you, or another posted in parallel (that is, another followup to the original message) with text added by you, and reasonable trimming.

I suspect a bouncy keyswitch or mouse button is causing it to send the first one before you ever get a chance to change things. Just read back in this thread, and you will discover that the article to which I replied (by you) was a reply to another (also by you) with the full text quoted, and nothing added by you.

I'm sure that it is not intentional on your part, but it is happening fairly often, so you might try to figure out just *what* is happening.

Good Luck, DoN.

If you want to see what the DuMore looks like, you might visit this web page which I threw together when I was restoring it.

The basic mechanism is similar to a General drill grinding fixture, except that the rotation is about a horizontal axis, instead of the vertical axis the General uses. And -- the fixturing of the drill bit is a lot better, including provisions for rotating it exactly 180 degrees after grinding the first flute. (There is a magnifier which gets a view of the edge of the flute above a reference line to help you align the flute properly for the first grind.

I managed to get a manual for this (a photocopy) from DuMore before they stopped supplying these. Apparently, some later finders of these machines were not able to get the manual.

Good Luck, DoN.

I think you could with a little practice, Charles. I do it all the time, although I worked as a machinist for the vast majority of my life and practiced hand grinding tools almost daily. It can be done, and very successfully.

Harold

Chuckle! I love your philosophy, Grant!

I'm of the opinion that the convenience of owning tools far outweighs the inconvenience of discovering you need something special ground, driving to a given shop, waiting for them to work it in, maybe today, maybe next week, and making the drive back to pick it up, mean time you're stopped on the project. Factor in the inconvenience and subcontracting simple jobs like this makes no sense. Especially when they can be done with surprising results by hand with a pedestal grinder.

Besides, isn't part of the challenge of doing it at home in *doing it at home*? Having it done by others sort of defeats the purpose.

Harold

The M series Darex(discontinued) would. I have one and have used it to do both flat point and 45° points

Randy